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Macy's Fireworks
I've only been a New Yorker for five days, but I've already managed to do a ton of things I've never done before. Yesterday I fit a few firsts into one day: my first time cutting my jeans into shorts (it was pretty hot, to say the least), my first time traveling to New Jersey (not on my way back to Ohio), and my first time seeing the Macy's fireworks in person.
After pretty much a lifetime of watching it on TV, I finally got to see the Thanksgiving parade in real life last November. It was much better to experience first hand, but I think even more is lost in translation when you watch the fireworks on TV. In person, they were spectacular. A major part of the entire fireworks experience is the noise, the crowds, being outside, smelling the smoke and really feeling the explosions as if they were happening inside of your own chest cavity.
My friend Trent suggested that we take a ferry to New Jersey and watch them from Weehawken, and it turned out to be an amazing spot. For the last five years the fireworks have been over the Hudson, but I'm hoping they return to the East River eventually so I can watch them from the Brooklyn Heights Promenade — can you think of anything more romantic?
The New Jersey waterfront was surprisingly nice and not anywhere near as hectic or as sweaty as standing in a pen with hundreds of other people in the middle of the 90-degree streets of Manhattan. We even had time to grab some appetizers at what appeared to be the only restaurant in Weehawken — P.F. Chang's (lettuce wraps!) — and walk along the water, stopping every five seconds to take yet another photo of the amazing view.
Although brutally hot and humid during the day, the weather was perfect as the sun went down, and the breeze off the water made it downright pleasant.
When the fireworks finally started, we realized that there was a streetlamp blocking our view, but we were able to walk a few feet and had an amazing view of the show. I've always loved everything about fireworks, and I think they are the perfect way to celebrate America — they're ridiculous, extravagant and in-your-face, and the Macy's show was no exception.
They did throw in the occasional shaped firework, which I'm never really a fan of — I feel like 90% of the time you're straining to guess what they're supposed to look like. I did catch a glimpse of a smiley face, but it's the huge, glittering, classic firework that I love. There was one particular group of enormous, gold, sparkling fireworks that pictures, of course, can never do justice, but that didn't stop me from trying to capture every moment.
Trent and I have already discussed trying to view the fireworks from a different place each year, and maybe one day we'll be rich enough to take one of those fancy cruises and watch from the river with a drink or two in our hands. But until then, paying $9 for the Weehawken ferry isn't a bad alternative.
Happy Independence Day!
July 4th has never been a huge holiday for me, but this year I have a big reason to celebrate the fittingly-named Independence Day —I've moved to New York!
Despite not having completely solid plans in place, I decided to just bite the bullet and book a one-way ticket for July 1st, and I haven't regretted it one second since I arrived. It's only been a few days, but I've already found a place to stay (right across from Central Park - !) and had two interviews for two great, potential jobs. I have one more interview lined up for next week, and if you know of anything that might interest me don't hesitate to send the info my way.
I've worked at 427 Design for the last five years, and while it was incredibly sad to leave my family (and my amazing office), I'm excited about switching it up and doing something new. It's insane to think that it's been five whole years since I graduated college. I guess I'm really getting old because at least once a day I think: where did the time go? I'm sure in the blink of an eye I'll be thinking the same thing about my first five years as a New Yorker, but for now I'm trying to enjoy my first five days.
It's incredibly difficult leaving the only home I've ever known, but I'll miss the people I've met even more. I never felt "at home" in Ohio, but hitting the jackpot in the friends and family (and coworker) departments always more than made up the difference. The support I've had has been overwhelming and it hits me in waves how very, very lucky I am.
Getting here was not always a breeze, and the last few months have been particularly challenging for me in a lot of ways, but I know it's time. I still feel as if I'm on vacation, and I've been told that feeling will last a while. I hope it never goes away entirely, and that I never lose my sense of wonder and awe at being able to actually live here. I've loved and respected this city for more than half of my life, and I'm honored to be able to finally call it home. I always felt like I was, but now I legitimately mean it when I say, I'm home.
MOMA: Rain Room
My wonderful friend Trent was nice enough to get a membership to MOMA recently, mostly just so we could actually get into the amazing Rain Room exhibit. Members of the museum get in an hour earlier than non-members, and while we were near the front of the line, it still took about 2 hours to actually get inside.
If you haven't heard about the Rain Room, it's a totally simple but amazing concept: you have a room (duh), where it's raining (obviously) but when you step into the rain, it stops. Motion sensors or some type of technology I'm sure I'll never understand, stop the rain around you. You can walk at a normal pace all through the rain and never get wet (save for the occasional drip). If you move fast enough, you can "trick" the sensors and get soaked, but that's not really the point.
It might seem pretty simple, but just trust me when I say it's totally worth the wait. There's something super calming and refreshing about being surrounded by fresh rain, and who hasn't wished for the ability to remain dry in the worst of storms?
Of course, the main point of the whole room is really to get your picture taken — it is 2013 — so don't forget your camera. There's a huge spotlight in the otherwise dark room, which makes for some pretty awesome-looking silhouettes. I've seen some ingenious poses on Instagram (#RainRoom), but I went for the more tame arms-up stance.
I would love to go again, but the waits have been insane so I can't stress enough to go early. Members also get to take up to two guests at a time for only $5 each (thanks Trent!), which also includes admission to the museum. The Rain Room is only open until July 28th, so grab your camera and a few friends — no umbrellas necessary.
Governors Island
A few weeks ago, in between apartment hunting and sunscreen re-application, I made it to Governors Island for the first time. I had been aware of the island for some time, but it's not open in the winter so it was one thing on my list I literally could not do when I was in the city earlier this year.
The weather forecast for Sunday was promising — sunny, high in the 80s — so I headed downtown in the morning to catch the 11 am ferry. I stopped at a Dunkin' Donuts to get an iced coffee on the way (so necessary), and I ended up on the 11:30, but luckily I only had to wait about 20 minutes before boarding.
The ferry to Governors Island is right next to the Staten Island Ferry station, and there is a separate line for people with bikes and strollers. I accidentally got in that line before I realized my mistake — if you don't have either, make sure to go
inside the building labeled "Governors Island Ferry Waiting Room," where you can join the "people only" line.
FYI: When I returned to Manhattan on the ferry around 3pm the line to go to the island was insane. I have no idea how long the wait was, but the line was at least ten times as long as the one I had waited on. I've noticed that New Yorkers tend to get moving a little slower in the mornings, especially on weekends (the only time Governors Island is open to the public), so I would recommend going as early as possible. The island also "closes" at 7pm, so factor that into your trip times.
The ferry ride is short (and free!), but just like the Ikea ferry you are rewarded with amazing views of lower Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty. New York is known for being insanely expensive, which it is, but there's no reason why you couldn't spend an entire day exploring Governors Island without spending a dime — just another reason why I love this city.
I spent the day exploring the island — for two centuries Governors Island was a functioning military base, and has the structures to prove it. There are tons of amazing old, brick buildings, hospitals, barracks and forts to explore, all in various stages of decay or repair.
I recommend taking the (free!) National Parks tour of Castle Williams, even if you're not an eighty-year-old super nerd like me. The views from the top of the former fort (and jail, and haunted house, etc.) are pretty stunning, and the interior just went through a extensive renovation — open to the public for the first time in its 200-year history.
Governors Island is pretty much the perfect place to take a picnic, but if all you brought was your iced coffee (like me) there are a bunch of food trucks and places to grab a snack. I'm the worst person in the world to talk about food, but just trust me when I say you won't be disappointed or hungry.
There is also an island-wide art festival of sorts going on all summer long. I don't have the best grasp on it as a whole, but everywhere you look there are art installations or performances. Some of them were cool — like a huge hut made of plastic milk jugs, but most of the "performance" art is kind of beyond me. As I was walking to the ferry dock, a grown woman in a fairy costume walked by me blowing bubbles — totally cool I guess if you're into that.
Like most things I've done in New York (and my life, now), I went to Governors Island by myself. I never felt lonely or bored, and I love going at my own pace. I took a million pictures and just tried to enjoy the amazing weather and atmosphere. Like Roosevelt Island (and I'm assuming Randall's Island, I haven't been yet), Governors Island is an amazing way to "escape" the city without going very far or spending very much.
It's a little weird, a little decayed and a lot of fun. I can't wait to go back when they open other parts of the island — right now only about half is developed but the plans for the future spaces are totally exciting. Next time I'll bring more substantial supplies — who wants to join me for a picnic?
The Strand Bookstore
No matter how many new and exciting things I find to do in the city, one of my top-five favorite destinations will always be the Strand bookstore. Home to 18 miles of books at 12th and Broadway, the Strand is my happy place. I find it absolutely impossible to feel anything but excitement every time I walk down Broadway and catch sight of the red Strand banners and sidewalk racks of discount books.
I've always been a sucker for books —especially discount books — but the Strand is so much more. In its current location since 1957 (and in business since 1927), the Strand was once one of 48 other bookstores on Fourth Ave., then known as "Book Row." It is now the only one left, and even without having been in any of the others, it's not hard to see why. There's something magical about the Strand that can't accurately be described, but if you're a book lover and you've been there, I'm sure you've felt it. There are four floors — basically: non-fiction in the basement, fiction on the ground floor, children's and art on the second and a rare book room on the fourth — and while I'm not sure where the "18 miles" tagline came from, you won't be disappointed by the selection. They sell new, used and rare books and I don't think I've ever left empty handed.
In addition to actual books, they sell some pretty great gifts too — cards, mugs, shirts and my personal favorite: tote bags. I've been collecting Strand totes since my very first visit, and it's impossible for me to pick a favorite. The designs change frequently, and they're always coming up with something new that I can't resist. During my two-month stay this winter, I obviously had to buy this cat version, which I haven't even used yet because I'm kind of terrified to get it dirty. Most recently, I was just about to leave the tote area empty handed when I spotted a khaki-colored one that I touched because it looked soft (and I touch everything) and then flipped it over to reveal a screen printed coffee-cup pattern (!). If you'll recall I'm kind of obsessed with the classic "We Are Happy to Serve You" NY coffee cup, so it was a very pleasant surprise and one of the quickest decisions to purchase anything I've ever made.
I also lucked out in the discount book department, which can sometime be very hit or miss (I found dollar copies of this and this). Browsing the sidewalk racks is probably my favorite part of going to the Strand. The store itself is packed floor to ceiling with books, which is why I love it of course, but can make for some very crowded browsing on the busier days. You have more room to breathe outside, and can browse at a more leisurely pace. The racks are separated by price, with most hardcovers at $2 and paperbacks at $1. There is occasionally an even lower price book mixed in — I found a vintage copy of "The Cat You Care For" for 49 cents a few years ago that I will treasure always.
The Strand is a great place to spend a few hours on a rainy day (if you can stand the hot, sweaty, moist crowds), and be sure to check out their list of events. They are always having book signings, famous speakers and occasionally do less cerebral things like speed-dating. I cannot wait to be able to visit the Strand on a much more regular basis. While ordering books from Amazon is convenient, it will never be able to replace the joy that I get from browsing a real life bookstore. Incidentally, most of the books I've bought from the Strand have been much cheaper than if I had gotten them online, and I get to read them immediately, without paying or waiting for shipping.
Coney Island
It's not hard to love Coney Island, even if a lot of what I love about it isn't even there anymore. I'm not talking about the damage from Sandy, although that's still very much an on-going issue. The Coney Island in my head may never quite match up with the real Coney Island, last stop on the D, F, N and Q trains, but I still love it.
I've only been twice, the first time for Nathan's 4th of July hotdog-eating contest (spectator, not participant), and again two weeks ago. I had considered going in the winter just to try a hotdog from Nathan's, but the original 1916 location was still closed due to damage suffered from Sandy (they reopened in May). So when my mom expressed an interest in going (she'd never been), I was in.
The day was beautiful — sunny, but breezy and cool. We went on a Wednesday, so it wasn't packed, but all the rides were open and running. On my first visit I rode the Wonder Wheel and the Cyclone, the two oldest, landmarked rides still in operation. This time we opted only for the Wonder Wheel.
Should you be interested in the Cyclone, know that while I love wooden rollercoasters, this one is particularly jarring. So much so in fact, that my friend said she "tasted blood" when it was over, and I most definitely had mild whiplash for days afterward.
People in the 1920s really knew how to have a good time.
The Wonder Wheel, however, is much less like a car accident, and much more like a regular ferris wheel. The white cars are stationary, while the blue and red cars swing. I was surprised on my first ride how much they actually swing, but this time I was more prepared and slightly less terrified.
We were the only ones on for our ride, which gives you great views of the parks, beach and ocean on one side and Surf Avenue and the rest of Brooklyn on the other.
There are tons of other games and rides — mostly for kids — and I made sure to get a fortune from Grandma (only 50 cents), but there's a Zoltar too if he's more your style ($1/fortune).
My favorite thing to do at Coney Island, however, is to just walk around. Even if the freaks are gone (officially), there are still tons of amazing signs, crumbling buildings and abandoned rides to hint at the old Coney Island that I wish I could have experienced.
We stopped and had lunch before we left at Nathan's, where I finally had my hotdog. I got mine with sauerkraut and mustard, and it was just as delicious as I expected it to be. I logically know that hotdogs are totally gross, and probably killing me, but that doesn't mean that sometimes they aren't just really, really good. Nathan's has burgers and fries and all sorts of other things besides hotdogs, but I can only attest to their hotdogs. I always wonder what kind of person goes to a place like Nathan's and orders a fish sandwich — I'm sure it's good, but it's not exactly what put the "famous" in their name, you know?
Coney Island is super easy to get to — just take the D, F, N or Q trains to the Coney Island/Stillwell Ave. stop. The beautiful, above-ground station is actually one of my favorites, and it's super close to the boardwalk and beach. Unfortunately I won't be back in time for the Mermaid Parade this year (June 22), but it's definitely on my list for next year, as is the recently reopened New York Aquarium. I'm so glad that Coney Island is bouncing back from the damage it suffered from Sandy, but if you know anything about its history, that's what Coney Island does best — survives, and reinvents itself.
It's scrappy, partially abandoned and a little bit dirty, but that's all part of why I love it and why I'll keep coming back.
I've Got Nothing To Do Today But Smile
Hello! If you're reading this, you may have noticed that the blog has undergone some changes since the last time I posted about the closing of Blue Carrot Shop. My twitter name was the first to change, and since I've renamed my Instagram, Pinterest and this blog. While the Blue Carrot
site is still up, I've put the shop on an indefinite hiatus — it may return in some shape or form someday, but I've sold all of my inventory in an effort to finance my next adventure.
In case you haven't guessed it already, I'm moving to New York City!
If you know me in person (or even just through this blog), this may seem like the most anti-climactic announcement ever, but I'm still pretty excited about it. I first came to New York when I was 14, and sent my sister a postcard saying "I want to move here ASAP." Well, 'as-soon-as-possible' turned out to be now — nearly 14 years later.
It's time.
To say I'm ready to be an official resident of the city I've loved for so long is an understatement of epic proportions. Even though I've still got a ton of things to figure out, I am planning to be back in the city at the beginning of July. I'm still looking for a job (anything remotely graphic designer-related) and an apartment, so if you hear of anything or have an amazing job that you just need get off your hands, let me know.
In the meantime, I will be recapping a few of my recent city adventures — my mom and I went for a week recently to scope out apartments and in between we managed to see some new things (Governors Island, The Little Red Lighthouse), as well as a few favorites (the Strand, Brooklyn Bridge Park, Coney Island).
I hope you have fun following along on all of my upcoming city adventures. Simon and Garfunkel said it best in one of my favorite songs, The Only Living Boy in New York:
I've got nothing to do today but smile.
Saying Goodbye, For Now
By the time you read this, I'll be in my dad's truck, probably somewhere in Pennsylvania, headed back to Ohio. I hesitate to call it "going home," as Ohio has never really felt like home, while New York always has — infinitely more so now that I've just spent two months living, walking and loving it. People keep asking if I'm sad to leave, and the answer is of course yes, but also no. I know I can't keep living this life of limbo — living in the city, working from Ohio, with most of my things there, while I sleep in someone else's bed here — forever, so in a way it's not hard to give up. I know that no matter what happens when I return to Ohio that I have to get through it to move ahead. Sometimes I think you need to go back, before you can continue to move forward.
It seems like yesterday that my dad dropped me off here, and in a blink of an eye he's back again. At the same time, it feels like I've been here for years, especially when I look back on what I've done in just two months. I've seen museums, parks, monuments, d-list celebrities, breathtaking skylines, walked bridges, explored neighborhoods, collected coffee cups, rode a sky tram and photographed every single moment of it all.
I'm not the same person that came here two months ago, and I'm forever changed by what I've seen and done. I've learned more about myself in this time than I ever could have living my "old" life and no matter what happens I know I'll cherish and look back fondly on this time.
I'm so incredibly grateful for my wonderful family and friends, who always prove themselves to be selfless and amazingly kind in (and out of) my times of need. I'm so very lucky to be able to do what I do, love what I love, and have experiences that have made me want to leap out of my own skin with joy.
It's impossible to sum up my time here in any amount of words, but just know that I'm not terribly sad that I have to leave, but instead grateful that I got to come at all. There's nothing in this life that has more consistently brought me so much joy, enrichment and opportunity than this city has, and it has my eternal gratitude.
Sometimes, when you don't have the words, it's best to default to someone that does, so for the second time on this blog I'll leave you with a quote from my very favorite book, The Hours: "We live our lives, do whatever we do, and then we sleep — it's as simple and ordinary as that. A few jump out of windows or drown themselves or take pills; more die by accident; and most of us, the vast majority, are slowly devoured by some disease or, if we're very fortunate, by time itself.
There's just this for consolation: an hour here or there when our lives seem, against all odds and expectations, to burst open and give us everything we've ever imagined, though everyone but children (and perhaps even they) knows these hours will inevitably be followed by others, far darker and more difficult.
Still, we cherish the city, the morning; we hope, more than anything, for more."
I hope, more than anything, for more.
NYBG: The Orchid Show
Before we went to the backstage tour at the Met, my uncle and I traveled to the Bronx (his first time, my second) for the Orchid Show at the New York Botanical Gardens. I love flowers and plants, in part I think, because I cannot for the life of me keep them alive. We always joked that my mom had a "black thumb" and killed supposedly kill-resistant things like chia pets and cacti. I'm sorry to say that I definitely inherited that trait, although perhaps to a lesser degree. I've managed to keep a few house plants alive for a few years, and the roses and Gerbera Daisies in our yard have somehow thrived despite my neglect. I think it's because of this that I have a fascination and extreme respect for beautiful foliage.
I've been to the Brooklyn Botanic garden in the spring, as well as a week ago, but I had never been to the larger New York garden. It's in the same park as the Bronx Zoo, and fairly easy to get to. If you take the subway (B/D), it's about a six block walk to the entrance on Mosholu Parkway. Thursday was a snowy day, but always on the verge of rain, so it wasn't too frigid. We arrived at the garden a little after 10am, expecting crowds but thankfully there were only a few other people milling about. Admission to the Orchid Show also gets you into the rest of the grounds, but we were on a somewhat tight time schedule so we just stuck to the orchids.
The Enid A. Haupt conservatory is a beautiful, enormous glass enclosure and nearly every room was just bursting with orchids and other wonderful plants. They also had flowering gardenias, grapefruits, lemons, enormous ferns and a desert section with various cacti. But of course, it's the orchids that steal the spotlight whenever they can.
They have an incredible amount of variety — ones that smell like chocolate, ones that look like slippers, ones that are printed like a giraffe, big ones, small ones and ones that look like tulips. Orchids are strange creatures — some even look like aliens. I wish I could have bottled the scent of the entire show, it was so lovely. It was nice to breathe in the sweet-scented, warm, moist air on such a dreary day, and after spending a few hours with the orchids I can definitively say I'm ready for spring.
I would love to go back to the garden for their take on the flowering cherries, but alas I leave for Ohio tomorrow (eek!). I did, however, pick up a copy of Susan Orlean's The Orchid Thief to reread — have you read it? If you've seen Adaptation you know that it's nearly impossible to explain without sounding dull, but believe me when I say it's anything but. Orlean is a fantastic writer, and the subject of passion, obsession and collecting is one that will always be near to my heart. It's even more interesting to revisit her words after I've seen a lot of what she describes, and she even mentions that some of the orchid varieties currently at the NYBG have been there since the late 1800s.
The show runs until April 22nd, and I highly recommend checking it out, and while you're there you can pick up a copy of the Orchid Thief, conveniently available in the gift shop.
The Metropolitan Opera
My days here in the city are dwindling fast, but by luck of scheduling my uncle is in town to share in adventures with me this week. If you've ever thought that I have a knack for packing a travel itinerary and wondered where I got it from, look no further than my Uncle Steve. I could write pages and pages about what a wonderful force he has been in my life, but I'll stick to detailing the adventures we've had.
His main love in life is the opera, so naturally he took me for my Metropolitan Opera debut on Wednesday night to see Don Carlo. We arrived a bit early so he could show me around his beloved home base — he's been coming to the Met for nearly 40 years. I'd never been to the opera before, and my only taste of Lincoln Center was Avery Fisher Hall, site of a Meryl Streep tribute in 2008. I had gotten terribly sick before that trip, but was determined to make it to the event — which included speeches from Christopher Walken, Uma Thurman, Robert Redford, Robert DeNiro and the Goddess Streep herself — where I had fourth row tickets. Thanks to my condition, I mostly remember the night from under a fog of cough-syrup, and I was excited to experience the true purpose of Lincoln Center without a purse stuffed with Kleenex.
I immediately fell in love with the amazing chandeliers that hang in the lobby, as well as the house. They were a gift from the Austrian government, in thanks for the United States' help rebuilding after WWII, and they're spectacular. The ones in the house hang low and then magically rise up to the ceiling as the performance starts. I was so awed by them, in fact, that somewhere between using the ladies room and gawking at the chandeliers, I lost my opera ticket. By that time I had already used it to get into the house, as well as noticed that my uncle had paid quite a lot of money for it — so I tried not to panic. I retraced my steps, but of course couldn't find it.
While I was cursing my carelessness (at home I'm actually notorious for finding things, not losing them), my uncle approached the house manager and informed him of our "ticket crisis." He graciously looked up my uncle's order, and issued me a handwritten ticket, which I didn't end up having to use. We were sure we were going to have to kick someone out of my seat, but thankfully no one challenged us.
The seats are surprisingly comfortable (I'm no supermodel but I am pretty tall, and always thankful for adequate leg room) and each one is outfitted with a display for subtitles, offered in a few different languages. Don Carlo was sung in Italian, so of course the subtitles helped, but sometimes it was nice to ignore them and just lose myself in the beautiful voices. It was a bit of a haul — more than four hours — but with two intermissions and interesting staging it went by quite quickly.
I'm proud to say that I not only survived (aka didn't fall asleep or emit a loud snore like the unfortunate woman in front of me) but actually enjoyed my first opera. Although it would have been hard not to catch a piece of my uncle's enthusiasm, and I'm sure it didn't hurt that we were in one of the best opera houses in the world. The next day, in fact, we went back to the Met during the day to see if we could secure a spot on their sold-out-for-months backstage tour. Once again, my uncle, doing what he does best, managed to get our names on the standby list just in time, and we were the last people admitted when the empty spots went up for sale.
The tour is a bit pricey ($20) but when the woman asked if I was a full-time student, I hesitantly replied yes and received a $10 ticket (without even having to show my ID, although I'm not sure if that's standard practice, but certainly worth a shot). It was definitely worth the price of admission, however, and I highly recommend the tour even if you know (or care) nothing of opera.
The Met is an enormous arts organization, and the inner workings of the building and the company are fascinating. We got to see dressing rooms, backstage, prop rooms, wig rooms, storage and rehearsal spaces. There were tons of people rushing about, moving scenery, sewing costumes, rehearsing shows and it was exciting to observe the numerous men and women behind the curtain. You weren't allowed to snap photos inside the house or backstage, but I managed to sneak a few. I would love to work in the prop department, faux wood-graining styrofoam trees, painting fake blood on costumes or gold-leafing intricate architectural details that can't possibly be seen from the audience, but are there so the singers can feel one with their characters.
Our tour guide was a cute older man named "Arthur", whom my uncle quickly labeled a "font of misinformation," but even without any of his explanation the tour would have been worth it. I recommend getting tickets in advance, of course, but even if it's sold out, there are usually at least a few spots open so it's worth a try. As much as my uncle loves opera, and loves sharing that love of opera, I'm sure this wasn't my last time at the Met. Next time, however, you can bet that my uncle will be holding onto our tickets.
Brooklyn Botanic Garden: Winter
On Saturday, after filling up on delicious food and kindness at Tom's Restaurant in Brooklyn, I headed to the Botanic Garden. It's a few blocks from Tom's and only $5 with a student ID (which I still have — shhhh). I'd been for the first time almost a year ago, at the end of April, and marveled at the blossoming cherry trees and gorgeous grounds, but I thought I'd check it out in the winter.
It might seem strange to go to a Botanic Garden on a gray, wintry day but it was actually quite lovely. It was pretty deserted and still totally beautiful, even if most of the flowers have yet to bloom.
There were many signs of the impending spring if you looked hard enough — budding trees, chirping birds, even a few blooms — and the indoor Steinhardt Conservatory offered a nice chance to warm up in tropical, temperate and desert environments.
I had somehow missed the Conservatory entirely on my last trip, mesmerized as I was by the cherry trees, but it's a real treat. There are tons of aquatic plants, strange-looking cacti and even an orange tree inside of the beautiful glass greenhouses.
I'm finding it endlessly fascinating and surprisingly rewarding to visit places that aren't generally considered winter activities, like the Botanic Garden or Flushing Meadows Park, in the winter. It's interesting to see a place in its peak, as well as in the off-season, if the lack of crowds isn't already enough of an incentive.
However, my heart aches that I won't be here for the cherry blossom season — it was one of the very best things I've ever seen in the city and I hope I'll be able to see it again soon. I happened upon the garden during peak blossom season last year, by chance, and I actually got to see them only a few days before a huge storm made the trees almost completely bare. They have a festival, but be sure to check the bloom maps before you go — if I had waited a week for the festival, I wouldn't have been nearly as blown away.
They currently have a bonsai exhibit which is definitely worth seeing — aren't bonsai trees just the strangest? They kind of creep me out, but I'm also fascinated by them, and the flowering ones are especially beautiful.
Tomorrow my uncle and I go to the New York Botanical Gardens for their famed Orchid Show. It's supposed to be rainy/snowy so we probably won't get to see much of the grounds, but I'm excited for another taste of spring. If you get the chance, visit either of the gardens in the next few months, and tell the cherry blossoms I'll see them next year.
Neue Galerie
On Friday my friend Katie and I went to the Neue Galerie, a small museum on the Upper East Side "devoted to early twentieth-century German and Austrian art and design." My uncle had taken me seven years ago, but German Expressionism is my favorite art movement (if I'm forced to pick just one) and I'd been wanting to go back for some time.
Usually admission is pretty steep — $20 general, $10 students and seniors — but on the first Friday of every month the museum is free from 6-8pm. I feel bad being so cheap, about museums especially, when I love and respect art so much, but I really wish most of them were cheaper or had more free nights. Most museums in the city have a night similar to a first Friday, where it's free or suggested donation, and the MET Museum has always been suggested donation. But there are plenty of other places that are pretty expensive, and it adds up quick. Of course, I'd rather spend my money on art and museums than going to bars or buying clothes, so I always try to pay as much as I can, but I've been trying to plan my visits lately around the discounted or free nights.
When we arrived at the Neue around 6:15 there was a line around the block, so I'm not the only one who craves a deal. Luckily, the line moved very quickly and we were inside by 6:30. The museum itself is in a landmark building, overlooking Central Park on 5th Avenue, and it was once occupied by a Vanderbilt, so you know it's spectacular. The second floor galleries with their ornate woodwork and floor-ceiling windows are as worth seeing as the art that hangs in them. There are two floors of artwork from Germany and Austria, as well as a nice collection of Decorative Arts pieces.
Some of my favorites are Egon Schiele's tortured self-portraits, Ernst Kirchner's trippy street life scenes and, surprisingly, Gustav Klimt's landscapes. Klimt's Adele Bloch-Bauer I is probably one of their most famous pieces, but I've never been a huge fan. I do appreciate that she appears to be wearing a skirt made of eyeballs, because that's just super strange, but it's a bit gaudy for me.
They have a huge collection of sketches and woodcuts that are amazing, and they currently have a Bauhaus exhibition that I know my graphic design professors would have been proud of me for recognizing. I've heard good things about Cafe Sabarsky and it's on my list of places to try, even if I'm not able to pronounce 90% of the menu.
If you don't mind fighting a bit of a crowd to see your art, I definitely recommend trying out the Neue on the next first Friday, although if you love German and Austrian art as much as I do, it's probably worth paying the extra money to get a little more breathing space.
Tom's Restaurant
I went to Tom's Restaurant in Brooklyn on Saturday for brunch, but I can't be entirely sure that the following even happened — it was such a perfect, New York experience that I may as well have been dreaming the entire time. When I got there there was already a line out the door, and around the building. But more importantly, I also got there as soon as the free pancakes came out. I had read enough reviews to know that Tom's is famous for feeding its waiting customers, but I still don't think I was prepared.
The full-sized pancakes (with syrup!) were carried by who is surely the world's nicest older gentleman. He looked a little like my grandpa (bald) and he was wearing glasses and a pale pink tie. He was so incredibly sweet from the very beginning — he looked at me, alone and last in line, and said "last, but not least!" — and before I knew it he was back out with full cups of coffee for everyone. As we passed cream and sugar through the line, I already understood where all those five star reviews were coming from — and I hadn't even made it inside of the restaurant yet. Before that would happen, the man made his rounds once more, this time with a heaping bowl of strawberries and fresh whipped cream, and asked multiple times if I would like more coffee.
Once inside the door (and when there were still several people ahead of me), the man asked, "So, your friends are still not here?" When I replied "Nope, it's just me," he immediately said "Oh my gosh. I am so upset. You come with me," and led me (by holding my hand) to a seat at the counter. He was extremely apologetic that I had waited so long in line (you know, the one where they fed me and gave me free coffee) and told the waiter to take "extra good care of me." Somehow, I think he would have done that anyway, but he certainly did after that.
I ordered more coffee and the 2x2x2 (bacon, eggs, lemon ricotta pancakes) and it came out faster than I could have ever imagined. I'm more of a waffle girl usually, but they are famous for their pancakes, and rightly so. They were the best pancakes I've ever eaten, and my only regret is that I was too full to properly finish them.
When I was about halfway through my meal, the older man came back and insisted that he felt terrible that I had had to wait so long, and instructed my waiter to give me a chocolate egg cream, on the house. I resisted asking him to marry me, and instead thanked him profusely and waited eagerly for my (very first!) egg cream. Turns out, egg creams are as gross as they sound (really watery, slightly carbonated and chocolate milk-esque?) but I drank it all because I couldn't risk hurting the feelings of the world's sweetest and most generous man.
Sometime between pancakes and egg cream he also came around offering "fresh orange slices" and I decided then that I never wanted to leave this bizarro world of free food and extreme kindness that I had happened upon. It was also about that time that I realized that sitting right next to the coffee pots was a huge stack of my "happy to serve you" cups — you know, the ones I've been on a mad hunt for (in the wild) ever since I first came to the city. It was a variety that I hadn't found yet (I'm collecting them all!), so I of course got one to go.
My entire bill came to $11, and if you've been keeping track that was for: three cups of coffee, three pancakes, two scrambled eggs, a mound of bacon, strawberries and cream, two fresh orange slices and a huge chocolate egg cream. When the older man came back at the end of my meal and lamented that I hadn't finished my pancakes, I insisted that they were amazing, but that I was just incredibly full. He told me once again how sorry he was that I waited so long (the torture!) and when I told him he was "the nicest," he retorted, "No, you're the nicest. Unfortunately our nices just didn't cross this time," but I assured him they would, next time. Then I left a $9 tip on my $11 bill, which wasn't nearly enough but was all I could realistically afford — Tom's made me long for the day that I'm rich enough to tip absurd amounts for absurdly awesome service, but I can only hope my 82% tip accurately conveyed my appreciation.
Seriously, if you're ever anywhere near Prospect Heights in Brooklyn (or even if you're not), make a trip to Tom's. You might even see me there, since there will most definitely be a lot of "next times" for me and those lemon ricotta pancakes.
The Upper West Side
Central Park, the North Woods
When I decided to come to New York for a few months, my first choice of neighborhoods was the Upper West Side. Luckily, I found the perfect place on W. 109th, which is technically in a neighborhood called "Manhattan Valley," but I don't really know anyone that calls it that, so I still refer to where I'm at as the Upper West Side. I'm a few blocks from Columbia — which is in an area called Morningside Heights, it can get confusing — Riverside Park, and one block from the northern boundary of Central Park.
I absolutely love this area, and if I move here permanently I really I hope I'll be able to stay close by. It has a real neighborhood feel to it, one that I don't get in other, more crowded areas of the city. It's pretty quiet but that doesn't mean boring. There are plenty of delis, grocery stores and restaurants close by, and the subway lines (B, C and 1) are super convenient.
Riverside Park
I think what I like most about the areas is the abundance of nature — Central, Riverside and Morningside Parks are all wonderful, beautiful and really close. I absolutely adore the architecture and feeling of history, especially on Riverside Drive. I can only imagine what some of the buildings look like on the inside, but outside they're almost all spectacular.
There's also an abundance of really large, historic cathedrals in the area, in fact, 110th Street is called Cathedral Parkway and each church is bigger, and more ornately beautiful than the next.
Riverside Church
Fountain and Column outside of the Cathedral of St. John the Divine
I'm not a church goer, but I always appreciate beautiful artwork and architecture. So far, I've been to the Cathedral of St. John the Divine as well as Riverside Church, and both are amazing to see.
It's been wonderful to be able to explore the neighborhood on my lunch break, and I've tried to go to new places almost every day. I fear I'm getting quite spoiled living here, and it's hard to imagine that I could be happier in another part of the city.
Grant's Tomb
The other day I went to Grant's Tomb, and it's almost surreal that I get to visit these amazing places (and sometimes even have them to myself!) every single day. I had never explored much of the northern part of Central Park before, but the North Woods is unlike any other part of the park. It's quite hilly and wild, and the Conservatory Garden is always a treat, in any season. There's a pond filled with ducks, bridges and waterfalls, baseball diamonds and an ice skating rink — all above 100th street.
The Reservoir
I walked through the park on Wednesday night and stopped by the reservoir just to admire the view — the city still manages to surprise me with its magical beauty at nearly every turn. Just a short walk or subway ride away there's a Whole Foods, Shake Shack, Magnolia Bakery, Momofuku Milk Bar and Trader Joe's — almost any store or restaurant you can think of has an Upper West Side location.
I read this article recently about the abundance of elderly people on the UWS, and how reluctant they are to leave because they basically never have to, everything they could ever want is right outside their door. There are many parts of the city that I love and value for their character and unique qualities, but I think I'll always be an Upper West Sider at heart, no matter where I eventually call my home.
Baked by Melissa and Billy's Bakery
I went over to my friend Trent's apartment on Sunday to watch the Oscar's with him and his boyfriend, Liam. Since there were only three of us, I thought it would be fun to bring over a bunch of Baked by Melissa cupcakes for a little tasting party. I had never had their cupcakes, but I'd walked by their stores many times, and been told that I had to try them.
What makes BBM different from other cupcake places, is that their cupcakes are teeny tiny. They had eleven flavors when I went, and I got a box of 25 (2 of each flavor plus three extra red velvet — Trent's favorite). I was thinking we'd split them between the three of us, but I ended up eating a bit more than my share so I could try each flavor.
I have to say, for as much as they're raved about, we were pretty unimpressed. The tie-dye flavor was my favorite, which as far as I can tell was basically just vanilla, but it was really good — I can definitely see why it's their signature. Runner-up goes to the cinnamon, which was also really delicious. After that, the rest were pretty much average to not great. I'd heard great things about the peanut butter and jelly, and it tasted exactly like a pb&j sandwich but I'm not sure that's a huge achievement, I mean, it's not that hard to make a pb&j sandwich.
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They were also tinier than I expected, and they definitely don't look like the silhouette from their logo, which I think is kind of misleading. We also figured out that if you were to combine all of the tiny cupcakes to make larger ones, they're kind of a rip off in terms of sheer volume for what you pay. I paid $20 for a box of $25, when I probably could have just bought a few cupcakes for half that from Magnolia Bakery and been just as happy. It was fun tasting the different flavors for the first time, and comparing them to one another, so I suppose the novelty of it all is worth it. I may go back and get a smaller box with just the tie-dye and cinnamon, and I wish I had gotten more of those flavors and less of some of the others (chocolate chip pancake, I'm lookin' at you).
In other disappointing cupcake news, I tried cupcakes from Billy's Bakery this week too and I was very unimpressed. I got a banana, red velvet, carrot cake and yellow daisy. So far I've eaten all but the carrot cake, and they've all been dry, hard and really disappointing. The banana was the best of the three, but even it wasn't as good as the banana from Butter Lane I had a few weeks ago (even if their website does play music -ick).
Before I went, I read countless reviews raving about their cupcakes, and many saying how much better Billy's was than Magnolia. I don't know if I got a bad batch or what, but I've had better cupcakes from generic grocery stores. Their store was super cute (I went to the Chelsea location) and I've always adored their logo, but I can't say that I'll be back. I know it's not cool to say you like Magnolia Bakery, but based on taste alone, I have to say that it's still my favorite. That doesn't mean I'll stop trying to find a better cupcake (it's tough work, but it's a cause I believe in), but at this point I'm really doubting that I will.
I'm up for the challenge, though, where should I look next?
The Bronx Zoo
My friend Shawn has a zoo membership that ends this month, so he decided to get one last use out of it, and I tagged along. He had free access to any of the four city zoos (and aquarium), but I wanted to see the Bronx Zoo. We went Saturday, which was kind of a crappy day — rainy, chilly and all-around gross — but as with a lot of things I've done here in the winter, we basically had the place to ourselves. The zoo is huge, and took us quite a while to walk through, even with some of the exhibits closed for the winter. I didn't mind missing out on a few animals, since I was getting in for free, but just know that if you go in the off season you won't be able to see everything.
There are still plenty of indoor exhibits (bonus: they're warm!) and of course the seals and polar bears don't mind being wet and chilly. It was nice to be able to walk around without tripping over a million screaming children, and the rain wasn't nearly as prohibitive as I feared it might be. We had umbrellas and boots, so we totally survived, even if some of my photos look a little "wet."
My favorite animals to see in zoos are the penguins, but their house was closed for renovations, so I think I liked the monkeys best — especially this little dude with his leaf, he cracked me up.
Or maybe the lemurs because they kind of reminded me of cats (especially considering the frequency with which we we "treated" to views of their buttholes) and were straight chillin' on this branch. I was also surprised when we first walked in to see peacocks roaming the grounds. There was a concentration of them when we first walked in, but then every so often we'd see another — blocking the door to the gift shop, blocking the door to the mouse house — apparently they like causing trouble.
It's hard to compare because of the weather and the closed exhibits, but I think the Bronx Zoo is one of the best, if not largest, zoos that I've ever been to. It was a little tricky to get to because of construction on the only two train lines that go there, but I'm really glad we went. It was also my first time in the Bronx, but I'll be back next week when my uncle and I go to the Orchid show at the Botanical Gardens. As much as I've loved New York in the winter, I'm very much looking forward to spring, although I'll be spending much of it back in Ohio. But let's not talk about that right now.
Roosevelt Island
Sunday was one of the best days I've had so far in the city. Aside from the obvious joy of seeing Meryl (albeit briefly) present at the Oscars, the first half of my day was pretty much perfect. I got up early and started the day with a walk through Central Park. My ultimate destination was Roosevelt Island, and I had planned to ride the tram, which is on the east side.
Since I'm on the west side, I took the subway halfway down and then walked the rest of the way through Central Park, stopping at a cute diner, Gene's Coffee Shop, for breakfast. I had a delicious mushroom and feta omelette, but I was especially smitten with their coffee. I think New York is turning me into a huge fan of diner coffee, and Gene's served a quintessential cup — for a dollar, no less (nothing here is a dollar).
From Gene's it was only a short walk to the Roosevelt Island tram, which quickly shot to the top of my "ways to commute in New York" list. It's easy to get to (just a few flights of stairs), comes frequently (I waited maybe 30 seconds), and accepts Metro Cards, so it's no different than riding the subway. Except of course, instead of speeding through a dark and smelly underground tunnel, you're suspended above the city in a cute little tram car, that takes you smoothly over the East River into Roosevelt Island in less than five minutes.
The views are great, and the novelty of it all is totally worth it, although you can still get to and from the island by subway as well if you're into that. There's also a bus service that will take you all around the island for 25 cents, but I decided to walk. It was a beautiful day, and I was in an exploring mood. There's a beautiful walking path around the whole island, and it took me less than two hours, walking at a leisurely place and making stops along the way.
The views of Manhattan are spectacular, and I'd never really given the Queensboro bridge much thought, but it's quite lovely. The views of Queens on the other side are decidedly less majestic, but I was pleasantly surprised when I turned a corner and was greeted with a close-up view of the Pepsi sign that I'd previously only seen in miniature from atop the Empire State building.
At the southern tip of the island is a Franklin D. Roosevelt memorial that just opened in October. It's pretty sparse as far as monuments go, but it's a beautifully designed space. Right next to the memorial is the Smallpox Hospital ruins, which are the only ruins to have designated landmark status in the city.
The area is fenced off, but you can still get a good look at the crumbling structure which is super creepy even in mid-day. I'm fascinated by creepy old medical things like asylums and hospitals and Roosevelt island has its share of history in that department.
Unfortunately the Octagon (once the main entrance to the New York City Lunatic Asylum) is now the lobby of a luxury apartment building, but it's still pretty to look at. On the northern tip of the island is a charming little lighthouse and another small park, which was fenced off due to damage from Hurricane Sandy but looked like a cute place to have a summer picnic (I'll be back!).
There's not much in the way of shopping or dining on Roosevelt Island, as far as I could see it's mostly residential (and there's still quite a few medical facilities). I've read that it's a great place to live because it's convenient to the city, but quiet and peaceful. At times it felt as if I had the whole place to myself, which was kind of awesome, but I imagine it gets a bit more crowded in the summertime. I stopped at the Starbucks (of course they have a Starbucks) for my weekly coffee-and-Sunday-Times tradition, and it's worth noting that they had the best music selection of any Starbucks I have ever been to. It was a wonderful interlude to my walk, and I was sad when I realized that I had pretty much seen all of the island and it was time to go.
Luckily, it's harder to be sad when you're taking a tram through the sky and back into Manhattan. I absolutely loved Roosevelt Island and I highly recommend taking a day to explore it on your own. It almost felt as if the whole thing was a bit of a secret — not too commercial or touristy but perfectly interesting, peaceful and pleasant. I'll definitely be back and it's nice to know that if I ever need a break from the city, it's only a tram ride away.
Momofuku Milk Bar
Monday night I tried to go to the Ace Hotel to finish reading my Sunday Times, but there wasn't one single seat available in the lobby. I sometimes forget that I'm in New York City, where at any given time there are approximately 8 million other people trying to do the exact same thing that I am. So I turned around, got back on an uptown train and ended up at the Upper West Side outpost of the Momofuku Milk Bar.
As with most things I do, it had been on my to-do list, and I had been craving ice cream all day so it was as sensible a destination as any. I ordered their signature cereal milk soft serve, with cornflake crunch topping. I had read rave reviews and they were all absolutely justified. It's unlike any ice cream I've ever tasted — sweet, but not overwhelmingly so, and even maybe a bit salty. I definitely recommend the cornflake topping — I don't think it would have been as good without it. In addition to covering the outside, they also filled the bottom, which was a nice surprise when I finally made my way to the end.
The only negative is actually something others might love — it was far too large. I would gladly pay less than $4.50 for a smaller portion, preferably one that didn't make me feel extremely sick after downing the whole thing (I mean, I didn't want to be wasteful).
While I was there, I also bought a slice of their equally famous crack pie, and took it home for later. Later ended up being Wednesday afternoon, when I couldn't wait any longer and devoured the entire slice before noon. I don't recommend waiting quite this long, however, because by the time I unwrapped it some of the wax paper had somehow melted and molded to the pie slice. I ate it anyway, obviously, but if I can help even one person avoid playing the unseemly game of "Paper or Pie?" than I've done my duty to dessert lovers everywhere.
Unlike the ice cream, I actually wish the pie slice was a bit larger , especially for the price ($5.25 — do I spend too much money on desserts? —don't answer that). It was delicious, of course, and incredibly sweet, creamy and kind of non-descript (it tasted like custard? sugar? a really good thing?). Whatever it's made of, it certainly deserves its name, because for the past few days I've been thinking about when I could get my next fix, although the first taste was anything but free.
Side note: Can you believe they get $44 for an entire pie?? I mean, it was good, but geez. I'm no expert, but I feel like I could buy a pie made from real crack for less money. Oh New York, sometimes you're pretty absurd. But, luckily, always delicious.
The most fantastic thing about the New York Botanical Garden’s annual Orchid Show is the orchids themselves