The Cloisters

I have wanted to go to the Cloisters, a branch of the MET Museum dedicated to Medieval art, since I read about it in one of my favorite books in high school. I finally went on Sunday, and I have to say that I think I finally found one thing in New York that isn't better in the winter. It was horribly windy and really cold, and there were times I thought I might be blown over the cliffs straight into the Hudson.

The museum is located in Fort Tyron park, which is at the northern tip of Manhattan. I'd never been up that far, but I walked around the neighborhood as much as I could stand it (have I mentioned how cold it was?) and it's a really cute and quiet place. It's quite hilly — in fact, it's the highest point in New York City, and you're only a few dozen feet lower than the Statue of Liberty's torch.

The views of the Hudson are pretty great, and the park is lovely, but I couldn't help but imagine how wonderful it is in the summer. There are gardens, and tons of winding paths and green spaces that I would love to explore when it's a bit more hospitable outside. The Cloisters itself is pretty awesome, albeit a bit smaller than I imagined — I walked through in about an hour. Like the MET Museum it's suggested donation, and whatever you pay also gets you same-day admission into the main museum, which is pretty cool.

The most impressive part of the Cloisters is the building itself, assembled from various "architectural elements that date from the twelfth through the fifteenth century," including pieces from five actual cloisters. I believe in the summer that the cloisters open up into outdoor gardens, but they were enclosed when I went.

They're also famous for their collection of Unicorn Tapestries, which are kind of mysterious and ridiculous and all-around beautiful. I don't even usually care much for tapestry work, but it's hard not to like a series about unicorns, especially one that continues to puzzle researchers, even today, about its origins.

I would love to go back on a summer day, when the gardens are in bloom and explore Fort Tyron park a bit more. I think I let my excitement of finally checking the Cloisters off of my to-do-list get the best of me, and got a little impatient. If you're at all religious I definitely recommend a trip to the museum — their collection is a bit Jesus-heavy — but even if you're not (I'm very not) go and be wowed by the architecture and magnificence of it all. Just maybe wait until it warms up just a bit.

Red Hook: Part One

Saturday I had made plans to go to the Bronx Zoo, but when they got rescheduled, I found myself with an entire day free to myself. I consulted my New York to-do-list (growing longer, yet also receiving checkmarks daily) and decided to spend the day exploring some neighborhoods in Brooklyn that I had never been to before.

For whatever reason, I wanted to start the day in Red Hook, a neighborhood that is notoriously hard to reach by public transportation, unless of course, you take the IKEA express shuttle. The IKEA shuttle is a ferry, actually, and is technically for those intending to spend the day shopping at, you know, IKEA, but it takes you from lower Manhattan to Red Hook in about 20 min. and is free on the weekends. I misread the schedule (they come less frequently in the winter) so I had to wait about 40 min. for one, but once you're on it the views of lower Manhattan, the Statue of Liberty and Brooklyn are pretty nice, and it was pretty comfortable (and warm!).

Once inside IKEA I realized that I really didn't need anything — I'm subletting the apartment here, and only for a few more weeks — but that didn't stop me from grabbing a $1 cinnamon roll on my way out. As many times as I've been to IKEA (the Pittsburgh store, mainly) and had my mouth water at the delicious smell of cinnamon rolls on my way out, I'd never actually eaten one. Cinnabon it was not, but it was definitely worth a dollar — especially because the line at the cafe was about a billion times shorter than the cafeteria upstairs, and I was pretty hungry.

Would it be fat of me to admit that as soon as I finished my cinnamon roll, I headed out of IKEA and straight to a... bakery in Red Hook? I came across the website for Baked while I was researching cupcake sites for work (I swear) and I'd wanted to try their famous brownies ever since. The walk from IKEA to Baked was a bit sketchy, but once I was on Van Brunt Street I began to see the appeal of Red Hook — I don't know if I could live there with its limited access, but it does have a certain old-world charm.

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Baked was really cute inside and I bought two brownies (sweet + salty and a brown sugar blondie) and a latte. They serve Stumptown coffee which everyone raves about, but I've found it to be a bit over-hyped and over-priced. I guess I would say the same thing for the brownies. For something that is touted as "Oprah's Favorite Brownie" I guess I expected more. They pretty much just tasted like... brownies. Not bad, of course, but definitely not something I would trek all the way to Red Hook for again.

I'm sure I'll be back to IKEA if (when?) I move here for real, and it's nice to know there's one so close. I'd also like to come back and visit the Fairway Market, which is closed because of damage from Hurricane Sandy, but scheduled to reopen in March. Have you ever been to Red Hook? What are some other places I should try if I'm ever in the neighborhood again? I hear Steve makes a mean Key Lime Pie...

The Manhattan Bridge

I guess I'm starting to have a thing for bridges. A few weeks ago I walked the Brooklyn Bridge for the second time, but the Manhattan Bridge has been on my list for a while, especially since I saw a photograph of the arch and colonnade in this Landmarks of New York exhibit.

Friday I got off work early (thanks 427!) so I decided to take advantage of the remaining few hours of sunlight and finally take on the Manhattan. The entrance to the bridge is in Chinatown, and while the arch and colonnade aren't hard to miss, the pedestrian walkway can be a little tricky to find. Unlike the Brooklyn Bridge, bikers and pedestrians use separate paths, on opposite sides of the bridge (if you're entering on the Manhattan side, pedestrians are on the right). You also walk below and to the side of traffic, and right next to active subway tracks so the experience is wholly different.

To someone who was familiar with the Brooklyn Bridge, I would describe the Manhattan as it's grittier, dirtier and slightly scarier, distant cousin. There is graffiti covering a large portion of the visible surfaces, and the original side barriers have since been amended with a high, curving chain link fence (presumably to discourage people from jumping onto the rooftops of the buildings below).

For a while you walk over neighborhoods in Chinatown and downtown Manhattan, and the views are amazing, particularly at, or near, sunset. You also get great views of the Brooklyn Bridge, the East River and, of course, Brooklyn. I'm not generally scared of heights — tunnels are more nightmarish to me — but I will say that the walk across the Manhattan is not for the faint of heart. Maybe it's the fact that you're closer to the water than when walking the Brooklyn, or that the whole bridge shakes violently when a train passes (and they pass frequently), but there were times when I felt a little uneasy.

It's probably because of these things that it also felt less touristy, which I'm sure could also translate into a bit "murdery," especially in the dark — I would advise sticking to daytime walks. I don't mind the graffitti, but they've also blocked off some older parts of the bridge — little charming alcoves where you could presumably pause to take in the views are now fenced off, which is a shame.

Also unlike the Brooklyn, you can't get much of a view of the bridge itself while you're walking it, but a short walk to DUMBO and Brooklyn Bridge park is all you need for that. I think the DUMBO neighborhood is super charming, and it seems as if every time I go there more cute shops and restaurants have sprung up.

I need to go back if for nothing else than to try One Girl Cookies— I was terribly impatient the last time I was there, and the line was long, but I've read good things. After my first foray into macarons was so successful, I'm eager to try out more goodies that I've been missing out on, and whoopie pies seem like a good choice (I've never had one!).

I had to stand in the middle of the street for this shot, but how cute is the Empire State Building peeking out?

I'm glad I can check walking the Manhattan off of my to-do-list, but I probably won't walk it again, if at all. The Brooklyn Bridge, construction and all, is still pure magic to me and I don't think any other bridge will be taking its place anytime soon.

I Heart NY

I finally found a real-life "Happy to Serve You" cup of coffee - down the block and only a dollar!

Whether or not I've had a significant other in my life, I've always loved Valentine's Day. Back when I was in elementary school, my mom and I used to spend hours crafting the perfect valentine holder out of a shoebox, and we always went overboard. I think there's something so wonderful about a day when it's perfectly acceptable if not a little bit mandatory to express your love for something or someone special — we should all be so lucky to have more such days in our lives.

This year I'm spending the day of love in, and with, the city I love: New York. I've loved this city ever since I first visited with my parents as a naive (and totally awkward) 14-year-old kid. My dad likes to tell the story of a bartender he met on that trip, who upon finding out that my dad had brought me here for the first time said, "She'll never be the same," and he was right. I've been finding ways to get back here ever since, and with every trip I fall in love a little more.

Since today is the day that you let your loved ones know how you feel, I thought I'd tell New York what I love most about it. Are you reading this, New York? This ones for you.

• The Subway - taking the subway home at 1am in a blizzard > driving home at 1am in a blizzard
• Tap Water - New Yorkers like to brag that they have the best-tasting tap water in the country, and I have to agree. It might not seem like a big deal, but to someone who orders water at every restaurant religiously, the quality difference does not go unnoticed.
• The People - New Yorkers are notoriously grumpy, but I've generally found them to be kind and complimentary and not at all axe-murdery.
• The Nature - I've never met a park I didn't like, but New York has the best manufactured nature expanses that I've ever been too. I could walk in Central Park every day for the rest of my life and still not get bored.
• The Museums - I am currently 20 blocks from some of the most famous paintings in the entire world, and I can see them 7 days a week for a nickel.
• The Newspaper - I've always preferred the New York Times to any other paper, local or national, but having the Metropolitan and Real Estate sections every Sunday is a real treat.
• The Food - for a picky eater like myself, having a million options is a great thing. It means that I'm never far from something that I can or like to eat, and my limited palette is constantly being expanded and introduced to interesting things that I may have never experienced living elsewhere.
• The Seasons - I know that having four, distinct seasons is not a trait exclusive to New York, but it is something that gives it an edge over places like California. I wouldn't trade my 11.4" of snow for 342 days of sunshine, and you can't convince me otherwise. Every season here has its own special treats and it's hard for me to pick a favorite, I love them all.
• The Service - People here don't waste time. They get in, they get out, they know what they want and how to get it. There is no room for indecision or incompetence. And if there is, ain't nobody got time for that.
• Apartment Living - Houses have their merits, for sure, but living in an apartment frees you from a lot of the constraints and hassle of home ownership. I can't think of the last time my friends in apartments had to rake leaves or mow the lawn, and while those things are necessary and can be rewarding, I can see how one can get used to devoting that time and energy to more enriching pursuits.

New York isn't the city for everyone, but I find new things to love about it every single day I'm here. I only have a few more weeks here until I return to Ohio, but I definitely don't think that our journey together will be coming to an end just because I have to leave for a while. True love lasts a lifetime, and me and New York, well we're just getting started.

UPDATE: Upon reading this post, my sister sent me this photo of a postcard I sent her from my first trip to the city (how awesome is it that she kept it?). You can see that not much has changed in the past 13 years — except of course now I know how to correctly use the words "were" and "where."

For shame, 14-year-old me.

Shake Shack + Macarons

It's no big surprise to anyone who knows me, or follows me on Instagram, that I've basically been eating my way from bakery to bagel shop to pizza place in the month I've been in New York. I know I should eat healthier but there's a lot in my life that's unsettled and overwhelming right now, and trying to overhaul my eating habits while living in someone else's apartment just seems like a losing battle.

Also, there are so many delicious treats I want to try and there isn't much for me to do after work, in the cold and the dark, so I've been spending my time seeking out tasty bites (I'm well aware this is a one-way-ticket to Diabetiss-ville). Generally, I'll decide on a destination — last night it was the Key Bank on 22nd street, which, is the only Key Bank in all of Manhattan (I had checks to deposit) — and then search nearby restaurants and bakeries to make a night of it.

I decided on Shake Shack after noticing that there was barely a line (which is rare), and ordered a single Shack Burger. I had been there once before and waited in an enormous line only to find that I still preferred Swenson's, but I wanted to give it another chance. I'm glad I did, because this time my burger was absolutely delicious. It was melty and gooey and just really, really good. I'm not ready to declare it better than Swenson's, but I'd be willing to say they're currently neck and neck. Incidentally, both are still light years ahead of the stale, almost inedible abomination that was my first In-N-Out experience back in June.

After inhaling my burger (partly because it was that good, partly because I was eating outside and getting cold), I walked down 23rd street to La Maison du Macaron (warning: their site plays music, ugh). I'd never had a macaron before, but after seeing them mentioned and raved about on nearly every single blog I've ever read, I decided it was time to see what all the fuss was about.

I got a box of eight ($20!) — (l-r) pistachio, dulce de leche, lemon, chocolate, dark chocolate w/coffee beans, Tahitian vanilla, salted caramel and strawberry— and waited until I was back home to try one. The pistachio was the first one I tried and oh my. Macarons were always a mystery to me and I had no idea what to expect or what they tasted like. After the first bite, I understood the hype completely. It was crispy and fluffy and creamy and unlike anything I'd ever had before. I also ate the chocolate and it was equally as heavenly.

I'm trying to save the last six for the next few days, but there's no guarantees I won't break down and eat them all real soon. The shop was really cute and they had a ton of other, more exotic, flavors that I was too scared to try but I definitely have to go back and be more adventurous in my ordering. I also found out that you need to keep them refrigerated and let them sit for 15 minutes at room temperature before eating them, which was helpful.

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Now, of course, I have to try Ladurée on the Upper East Side to see how they compare. I hear they're more expensive and more crowded than La Maison, but they're as authentic and Parisian as you can get in the US, so it's definitely on my list. I can't believe it's taken me 27 years to try a real macaron, but even now that I have, one mystery remains.

How exactly do you pronounce the word macaron?

Luckily I didn't have to say it in the shop, I just said "I'd like a box of eight" but I'm not even sure how to say it in my head when I read it — mack-a-ron, mack-a-roon, mack-a-rone or something totally different? Even if I knew, I'd probably still always feel like an idiotic American when ordering, especially with all of the fancy, French-sounding flavors to mispronounce.

Taking bets on how long you think I can go before devouring the last six — well, five. I ate the lemon while I was writing this post.

Chinese Lunar New Year Firecracker Festival 2013

Sunday marked the beginning of the Chinese Lunar New Year and this year is the year of the snake (I'm an ox, or so the Chinese restaurant place mats tell me). To celebrate, my friend Trent and I headed to Chinatown (duh) for the Firecracker Festival. We heard there would be lion dances and half a million firecrackers, which sounded pretty awesome. To be honest, it wasn't exactly awesome, but I'm still glad we went — you never know until you try, right?

We got there at 10:30am, and the festival was scheduled to begin at 11. The whole thing takes place in a sunken basketball court in Sara D. Roosevelt Park, so we were in the second row of people but couldn't really see much. Turns out, the firecrackers didn't go off until around 12:30, with the lion dances coming shortly before. The other two hours were filled with a seemingly endless stream of speeches — half in Chinese, which is understandable, but I can't tell you what they were saying — most of which consisted of councilmen/women wishing everyone a happy new year while simultaneously campaigning for themselves.

When our vote wasn't being solicited, we were treated to another seemingly endless stream of what I can only assume are semi-famous pop singers, but cultural barriers aside, no one in the crowd seemed to have any clue who these people were or why they were singing. It was all so bizarre and incredibly cold — after about 30 minutes of standing on what had basically become an ice pack, both Trent and I began to fear for the safety of our toes.

The lion dances were cool, or rather I think they were. When they began the crowd of photographers and "officials" was so densely packed around them that no one outside of the basketball court could really see anything.

At least we could see the firecrackers, and they were just as loud as you would think half a million firecrackers would be. I'm glad we stuck around long enough to finally see them, and I also loved all of the confetti — I think they should scratch the firecrackers and just do half a million confetti poppers next year. There's a parade this weekend, which is probably the better celebration of the two, with more ideal viewing conditions I would imagine. Despite loving New York I get a tad claustrophobic in loud, pushy crowds, so I'll probably skip the parade this year. We do have plans to return to Chinatown on a non-holiday weekend to try out the Nom Wah Tea Room and the Chinatown Ice Cream Factory— I've actually never eaten Chinese food in the city, which seems kind of ridiculous because I love it.

So, do I recommend the Firecracker Festival? Not really, but I'm still glad we went and now we can check it off of our to-do-lists. We were also treated to the somewhat puzzling appearance of Asian Ronald McDonald, who was the only mascot in attendance, danced along with the songs and spoke alongside councilmen and Chinatown officials to wish everyone a very Happy New Year — so that pretty much made everything worth it.

Finding Nemo*

This weekend my wish for a significant New York snowfall came true, with a storm the Weather Channel took it upon themselves to name Nemo. Apparently they're doing that now, but whatever it was called, it was amazing. I know storms are not usually things to be celebrated or looked forward to, they wreak havoc on power lines, wreck cars and generally inconvenience most everyone, but I absolutely adore snow. Yes it's cold, yes it's slushy and wet and annoying. But it's also completely magical to me. Rules are suspended in a major snowstorm — school's are cancelled, roads are free-for-alls and the entire world turns into a playground.

I'm staying on the Upper West Side and we got more snow here than in mid and lower Manhattan, but the official tally in Central Park was 11.4 inches. While I was hoping for the 38" that some models were initially forecasting (heeeyyy New England), nearly a foot of snow still made for some pretty amazing scenery.

I watched the storm from my window like a giddy little kid on Friday afternoon, with the rain/ice mix turning to snow around 2pm.

After dinner and some celebratory Nemo-induced drinking, I walked home around 1am and my neighborhood was already blanketed — and so, so pretty. Saturday morning I headed to Central Park (with every other camera-owning New York resident and tourist) to take about a million pictures and try to keep my jaw from physically dropping around every corner. Pictures can't possibly do it justice, at least not with my wimpy camera, but seeing the park covered in snow is definitely one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen.

It exceeded my expectations in every single way.

I visited my usual spots, made new and exciting under the snow. Almost all of the walkways had been plowed (have I told you how much I love this city) so I was free to enjoy the spectacular views for hours without getting cold and miserably wet. Although if you were into that, they open the lawns (normally closed in winter) when the city gets 6" or more of snow and there were plenty of people making snowmen, chasing dogs and even cross-country skiing.

It seemed like everyone in the city was making their way to a favorite sledding spot, and I put it on my to-do list under the "eventually" column. When I'd seen (and photographed) basically every single view in Central Park, I headed to the west side where I stopped at a diner to refuel before starting my snowy tour of Riverside Park.

The sun was beginning to set, and the light was reflecting off of the ice and snow-covered trees in the most amazing ways. I also noted that the sledding hill selection seemed on par with Central Park, but it was much less crowded — if you're serious about sledding, I recommend trying out Riverside. The park was generally more empty too, especially as I got closer to the north end by Grant's Tomb.

I then cut over a few blocks to the top of Morningside Park, which was the least picturesque of the three, but still a sight in the snow. I'm staying a block away from the south entrance to the park, so I walked its length and ended up back home, exhausted and a little bit cold but exhilarated and even more in love with the city.

The streets are plowed now, the wind has blown most of the snow off of the trees, and it's supposed to be 46 and rainy today, so I'm sure the city is about to turn into a wet mess — I'm learning that even with a large amount of snow there is a very narrow window when it can be best enjoyed and photographed. I'm so glad I got out in it when I did. Saturday ranks as one of my absolute favorite days I've ever had, and I'll never, ever forget how magical the city felt, or how thankful I am that I'm here to see it all.

*I know. This headline is a terrible pun and I'm certainly not the first person to use it. It's hard naming blog posts (and presumably, storms), ok?? Hey look at all that pretty snow!

New York: The First Month

I've officially been in New York for four weeks, which is four times as long as I've ever spent at once in the city before — and they've absolutely flown by. I'm paid up with the apartment until March 11, so I still have some time to check things off my to-do list and figure out that whole "what I'm doing with my life" thing, but I feel like I've learned so much in just four weeks.

I've always been pretty good navigating the subway system, but I'm pretty much a pro now. I haven't once taken the wrong train or missed my stop, and I've even helped a few people safely (and efficiently) reach their destinations. I still check my iTrans app a lot, but mostly just for the arrival time of the next train, or for service announcements. I always have my MetroCard ready to swipe and I've yet to be sliced to pieces by the revolving turnstiles that used to be my worst nightmare but are now just a minor annoyance.

My worst nightmare  |  My spirit animal

I've figured out how to do laundry, buy stamps and take out the trash. After about a week, I stumbled upon a grocery store a block away from the apartment that basically has everything I could ever need and is surprisingly cheap. When I'm feeling fancy, I can take the train to Trader Joe's on 72nd Street, which is not only super cheap, but every single thing I've ever eaten from there has been the best — string cheese, white cheddar popcorn, cookie butter — I've ever eaten. There's a deli two blocks away that will make me a delicious sausage, egg and cheese bagel 24-hours a day for only $2.50, and I've figured out the schedule of the school across the street so I no longer run into hoards of obnoxious middle schoolers on my lunch break.

I've been to Riverside Park, Central Park, Morningside Park, Tompkins Square Park, Flushing Meadows/Corona Park, Madison Square Park and Washington Square Park, and taken hours-long walks in the snow, rain and wind.

I've eaten the best cupcakes, bagels, cheesecake, banana pudding, pizza, hot chocolate, fried chimichanga and short rib that I've ever tasted and eaten more feta-and-mushroom omelets than I can possibly count.

I've been to the NY Historical Society, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the American Museum of Natural History, Grant's Tomb, the Cathedral of St. John the Divine, Riverside Church and the Queens Museum of Art.

I've walked the Brooklyn Bridge, wandered Greenwood Cemetery, perused the Brooklyn Flea, celebrated Grand Central Terminal's centennial, read four Sunday papers, frolicked in my first New York snowfall, bought a hat, watched "the Beatles" play at Carnegie Hall, taken photo booth photos at the Ace Hotel, and hung out in a room full of butterflies.

It's also worth noting that I haven't once been pushed in front of an approaching train, mugged or robbed in any way, or kidnapped and sold into white slavery (yet!), much to my family's surprise. I haven't gotten lost, or given up, or even been frustrated with the city in any big way. There are a lot of terrible things about living in New York, and it's definitely not for everyone, but by this point I think I can say that it's most definitely for me.

Me and new bff Hat the day we met  |  Hat and me walking the Brooklyn Bridge  |  Me and Hat on a windy day

Every single day I've walked out of the apartment and gone some place amazing, or interesting, or ridiculous and I think how incredibly lucky I am to be in the greatest city on earth. I get to walk in Central Park on my lunch break, and walk by places every day that some people can only dream of visiting once in their lifetime. I was bored on a Wednesday night so I walked over the Brooklyn Bridge. I'm so grateful and humbled and thankful to everyone and everything in my life that has led me here, and I'm trying my hardest not to take it for granted.

I am also really trying to be positive, to live in the moment and enjoy every single second. It's so easy to get annoyed by the weather, or by my lack of money, or to feel lonely in a city of 8 million people when I only know five of them, but I'm determined to live a wonderful, happy life and I believe that is something I can definitely create for myself.

People have commented that I'm lucky or that my life is so wonderful, and they're absolutely right. But I'm also trying very hard to make the best of my time, here in New York, and here on this planet.

And it is true. I'm having a wonderful time.

The Brooklyn Bridge

Yesterday I had one of those emotionally exhausting days where nothing really goes wrong but everything just kind of feels wrong, you know? In other words, I'm a 27-year-old girl. Anyway, after work I wanted to do something to cheer myself up, plus I had taken a shower AND washed my hair and that's really not something to be squandered by staying in and watching bad tv on my laptop.

So, I took the subway to Brooklyn Heights and walked over the Brooklyn Bridge. And then I walked back. I've walked it once before, on a super hot day one July, and it was amazing, but super crowded. Last night, however, true to my observations of New York winter, it was pretty empty.

I started at the very beginning — like Dorothy beginning her journey on the Yellow Brick road. There are a few different entrances along the route, but I like being able to say I walked the entire thing.

It's so beautiful and every time I looked up and saw a new, amazing view, I couldn't help but smile like a giddy little kid.

Also, it should be no surprise that I can't even think about the Brooklyn Bridge without thinking about Sophie's Choice, although I've never been bold enough to hang from a lamppost — or bring a bottle of champagne.

I would still like to walk the Manhattan Bridge for its amazing views, but there's something about the Brooklyn Bridge that will always be magic to me. When I got home, a friend of mine had commented on a picture I had posted from my walk, and said "Your life rules." It was a totally nice thing to say and it made me realize that not only am I doing Facebook right (i.e. presenting my life as flawless and exciting) but that he's kind of right. My life totally rules.

Winter in New York

I was a bit apprehensive coming to New York in January. I had initially planned this whole experiment to happen in May — there's no where I'd rather be in spring (or fall... or summer...) than the city. But circumstances being what they are, I'm here and it's right smack in the middle of winter.

The day I arrived it was 50 degrees and rainy, and there have been a few more of those spring-teases sprinkled in, but mostly it's been, you know, wintry. I'd been here in winter before, but only once when it was really, really cold. It was a pretty miserable trip, one I certainly didn't want to recreate spread over two long and frigid months.

To my pleasant surprise I'm actually loving it here, despite, or maybe even because of, the cold. The city feels different in the winter.

The parks are not desolate, but they're certainly not packed either. There are less tourists, of course, which means I get to go famous places like Grant's Tomb on my lunch break and have the place completely to myself. Places that are absolutely beautiful in the spring and summer are still picturesque, but in a different way.

I am totally happy with my decision to come here when I did.

When I imagined living here, I always dreaded the winter — what would I do without being able to nap on park lawns or take long walks in the evenings? Well, I can't take park naps — at least not on the lawns, which are closed until April — but I can still take long walks, I just need the proper gear.

These boots have been a lifesaver (bonus - they're on sale right now!) and keep my feet unbelievably toasty, and lest I go one blog post without mentioning the hat. I'm also loving these touchscreen-finger gloves I got from Target, which come in handy when I'm checking train arrival times, looking up directions or Instagramming on my lunch break. I've also discovered a new way to wrap my heavy, knit scarves that all but covers my face but keeps me incredibly comfortable and warm. The Swedish apparently have a saying that "there's no bad weather, only bad clothing" and I think now that I've found the right items, I would definitely agree.

I've always been a big fan of all four seasons, and I wouldn't trade my snowy walks in the park for anything — not even a field of tulips — and luckily I know I can have both. Even the Conservatory Gardens, absolutely breathtaking in spring, are still gorgeous on a sunny February day. It's supposed to snow again on Friday night, and I'm hoping there's at least one huge snowfall (more than a dusting) before I leave.

Spring will come eventually, that's the nice, predictable thing about seasons. It may even be early, according to Punxsutawney Phil, but for now I intend to enjoy every minute that it seems like I have New York all to myself.

The American Museum of Natural History

The American Museum of Natural History is one museum here in the city that isn't open late any days of the week, nor do they have any special or discount admission times, so I went on Saturday afternoon. I'd only been once before but I wanted to check out the Butterfly Conservatory and I've never met a natural history museum I didn't like.

The AMNH ranks among the best ones I've ever been to (including the Field Museum in Chicago, and probably for nostalgia reasons, the Cleveland Museum of Natural History). Their dioramas are definitely my favorite exhibits, and they have so many that I haven't even heard of a lot of the animals on display. I love taxidermy and dioramas in general, but the AMNH's are particularly exquisite. I especially like the wooden display cases and the metal type used to label most of them. It all feels antique and incredibly special.

I think I was most at awe over the Alaskan brown bears — they are so unbelievably enormous and terrifying, even behind glass and, well, not alive. But if you ever really want to feel humbled and tiny, pay a visit to the ocean room with its to-scale model of a blue whale hanging from the ceiling. The animal kingdom is nutso, but the ocean world is even weirder.

I highly recommend paying a visit to the museum, if only to see the Butterfly Conservatory, open until May. It's tiny, but packed with the most beautiful (and friendly!) butterflies and moths I've ever seen.

As a bonus it's super warm inside the Conservatory, which was a welcome escape from the cold and wind. The lighting is kind of strange and it was pretty packed when I was there, but it's really cool to see such beautiful, and oftentimes elusive, creatures up close and personal.

One dude even landed on my arm and was content to hang out while people took his/her photo (myself included). I'm pretty squeamish around bugs and sometimes I realize that butterflies are just huge flying insects with gross curly mouths and hairy legs and I would be lying if I didn't say I was a bit relieved when he/she finally departed my sweater for a rotting banana (or whatever else butterflies like to land on).

The one thing that's disappointed me both times I've been to the museum, however, is its dinosaur collection. It's not the quality or the quantity — from what I can tell they're both top-notch — but I think it's the way they're displayed that I don't love. Most everything is behind glass, which I totally understand, but there's something modern or distracting about the exhibits that I feel takes away from the fossils and skeletons themselves. I actually prefer Cleveland's method of display, but maybe that's because I've been going to that museum since I was a toddler, and I don't think their exhibits haven't changed at all since then, which seems right for a natural history museum.

The AMNH is huge and I was there for about three hours before I was so exhausted and tired of screaming children that I headed home for a nap. It's only four subway stops from the apartment, and right across from my very favorite spots in Central Park — the views from the fourth floor are not to be missed. I would love to go back on a weekday or figure out another time to go that wasn't so crowded, but alas I have one of those pesky day jobs that doesn't allow for 3+ hour museum trips in the middle of the day.

Maybe they need some extra help spraying down the butterfly habitats or checking people as they leave for escapees (these are real jobs, you guys) — I know there's at least one moth that would vouch for me.

City Bakery + NY Cheesecake

I feel like since I've been on my own for the past three weeks, I'm realizing that the only thing that kept me eating meals and semi-normal foods on a somewhat regular basis was having a boyfriend to feed. When I'm by myself it's either easier or preferable (or both) to just snack all day long. This would probably be ok if it didn't mean that I ate cupcakes for lunch, cheesecake for dinner and equally-bad-for-me crap all other times of the day (and night). But I don't really feel too bad about it because I'm walking what seems like a million miles a day and I pretty much got zero exercise before coming to New York, so at least I'm doing something right, right? Anyway, I've managed to eat some pretty amazingly delicious things that I will now recap for you because I have exactly zero shame.

I went to brunch with a friend from high school last weekend — it's been ten years since we've seen each other, god we're old— and we met at City Bakery. It was my first time, but like most restaurants I eat at here in the city, I checked out their menu and read reviews on Yelp beforehand, so I felt prepared when it came time to order. They have a ton of amazing-looking baked goods and other delicious treats like mac n cheese (and a salad bar, but let's be honest, I didn't give that much thought), but I'd read so many good things about the pretzel croissants and hot chocolate that I knew I had to get both.

The rave reviews of both are completely justified. The pretzel croissant was salty and crunchy and incredibly flaky and delicious. My only complaint was that I wish it was warm, but make sure to ask for butter anyway. And don't forget napkins because it might have been one of the messiest things I've ever eaten — not recommended for a first date or any time you wish to look even remotely in control of your faculties. I've mentioned before that I hate to watch people eat and be watched while I eat and I apologize to anyone who saw me rip my way through it like a wild animal (I'm not that gross usually, Katie, I promise).

City Bakery is most famous for their hot chocolate, and rightly so. I read a lot of complaints from people who thought it was bitter, too thick, overrated or too expensive (hello, this is New York — I paid $5.75 for a small latte yesterday) but I thought it was heavenly. It's basically melted chocolate in a tiny bowl that's apparently totally socially acceptable to drink at any time of the day.

I had decided beforehand to forgo the marshmallow, but when someone asks you if you want a handmade marshmallow in your five-dollar hot chocolate, you say yes, yes I would. When forced to make a snap decision that will make my bad-for-me food even worse for me, I'll probably always say yes. I definitely didn't regret my decision, and was rewarded with the best-tasting, fluffiest, cutest cube of a marshmallow I've ever encountered.

Yes, the hot chocolate is a tad bitter but that's what I liked most about it, and don't worry because it's plenty sweet (especially with the marshmallow). So sweet and rich, in fact, that I almost couldn't finish it even though I had ordered the small, and I felt pretty sick after I did (apparently my barometer for declaring a food delicious). City Bakery is currently having their Hot Chocolate festival during the month of February, and every day they have a new flavor, most of which sound absolutely amazing — espresso! cinnamon! caramel! I'll definitely be back at least once this month to try a new flavor and maybe this time I'll give the salad bar more than a passing glance.

Also last week, I officially had my first piece of New York cheesecake, from Junior's. They're known specifically for their cheesecake (it's even in their web address), so when I found myself eating dinner at their Grand Central location, I knew I would have to take a piece to go. I love cheesecake so it's strange to me that I'm just now trying the New York variety, but I'm definitely glad I did.

Like the hot chocolate it was so rich that I could only eat half — the other half is currently hanging out in the fridge, waiting to be finished. I got mine with cherry topping and I'm not sure if that's the authentic or correct way to eat a slice of NY cheesecake, but I'm not sorry I did it. I'm also not sure what makes this cheesecake so different from any other cheesecake I've eaten, other than the fact that it was really, really good.

Add to that all the crap I ate at a Beyonce Concert Super Bowl party this weekend and I think I'm in desperate need of a vegetable. With all the bakeries, pizzerias and coffee shops on my New York to-do list, however, that salad bar might be lonely for a while longer.

Happy Birthday Grand Central!

On February 1, 1913,

Grand Central Terminal

opened it's doors and today it turns 100. I decided to pay a visit to the birthday boy — girl? building? — last night, hoping to pay my respects while avoiding the crowds brought in by

today's celebrations

 (although the

1913 prices

in some restaurants and shops are pretty tempting). I also wanted to check out the

Transit Museum's Holiday Train show

, on view until February 10th.

I was definitely expecting something a bit more "grand" of the train show, instead it was basically a tiny store display, inside of the the Transit gift shop. The model of Grand Central itself was pretty cute, but I guess I was expecting more.

I would love to come back and eat at Cipriani Dolci overlooking the Main Concourse like Meryl Streep and Robert DeNiro did in Falling in Love (it was a different restaurant then, but still), and I have yet to try the whispering corners with someone other than my mom (I think they're so romantic — but you know, not with my mom).

The full-scale Grand Central still wows me, no matter how many times I walk through it. It's a good place to spend a rainy afternoon, or in my case, a very windy, chilly night. I always end up gawking at the celestial ceiling and taking a million pictures like a starstruck tourist, but I especially love people watching from one of the balconies. I even made a little video if you want to people watch along with me. I love the hustle of everyone, the feeling that everyone is going somewhere important or exciting or exotic.

[source]

It's crazy to think that the Terminal was almost demolished in the 60s, and saved in part due to Jackie Kennedy Onassis. It makes me sick when I think about the old Penn Station, and how I'll never be able to see it — worse yet, it's now basically a K-Mart. It also makes me mad that the light no longer filters into Grand Central like it did in these famous photos, because neighboring buildings have blocked the sun. I know that change is an inevitable part of the city, but I'm grateful that Grand Central is still intact and just as impressive, even at the ripe old age of 100.

Side note: I'm not a huge fan of Pentagram's clock logo rebrand for Grand Central, but I do like the accompanying advertisements and I think the website redesign is especially nice. There's something about the clock illustration that feels cheap to me, but a lot of Pentagram's work has been really underwhelming recently, at least I think. What do you think?

Riverside Park

Remember when it snowed last week? Well, this week it's basically been a faux spring here, with yesterday's temperatures in the 60s. I know it's super boring to talk about the weather, but even worse is complaining about it — you won't find that here. Not that I'm an eternal optimist, but I'm having a great time here, whether it's 60 or 0 (thanks in part to my hat! ok I'm done mentioning the hat, I promise).

This week I've been spending my lunch hour in Riverside Park. I'd only been there a few times before, most notably to check out the garden from the end of You've Got Mail. Probably 60% of the things I seek out in the city are from movies or tv shows. I'm that girl. Anyway, the apartment is closer to Central Park, but Riverside is only a few (long) blocks away, and I think it's rapidly becoming one of my very favorite places in the city.

The last few days it's been pretty empty in the afternoons and the cloudy, foggy, slightly rainy days have given everything a hazy, magical look to them.

There's a main drag lined with trees and benches that reminds me of the Mall in Central Park, minus basically all of the people and hot dog vendors (they aren't missed, trust me). I've only explored the lower half of the park so far, but I intend to take a weekend and walk the entire thing.

I also can't get enough of the architecture on Riverside Drive — the buildings are so elaborate and beautiful — I dream of being rich enough one day to even begin to think about living in one. It's supposed to get cold again here soon, and it may even snow this weekend. A snowy walk in the park sounds like heaven to me — have I mentioned how much I love this city??

Queens Museum + Flushing Meadows-Corona Park

On Saturday my friend Trent and I went to the Queens Museum of Art. Neither of us had been before, but we'd been talking about going for a while. We both love New York history, and the museum is located in Flushing Meadows-Corona Park, site of the 1939 and 1964 World's Fairs. Almost all of the fair structures are gone now, but a few are still standing, including the Unisphere, observation towers and the New York Pavilion.

The Unisphere is absolutely amazing and one of the coolest things I think I've ever seen. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but it is enormous. For some reason I had it in my head that it was like, 10 feet tall, but it's actually 12 stories high. It had fallen into disrepair, but was fully restored in the 90s and given landmark status in '95.

Saturday was cold but sunny and beautiful — the park was mostly deserted and Trent and I are already making plans to return in the spring or summer, especially to see the fountains (restored in 2010, but turned off for the winter). We walked through most of it, searching for remnants of the fair but there isn't much left.

The observation towers and the New York Pavilion are basically ruins, but I love exploring old, forgotten places. I felt like I suddenly understood how creatures might feel in the future, coming to Earth and wondering what purpose different things served — Trent and I were speculating on what was inside the Pavilion, until we discovered that it was basically just an empty yard.

The whole area feels like it hasn't really changed since 1964, which I love. We went into the museum to warm up, and see the New York Panorama, another relic from the World's Fair. The museum is under construction right now (and from what we saw contains basically no art), so it's pretty much the only exhibit that is open — but more than worth the $4 student price of admission.

The Panorama takes up an entire room and took 100 people three years to create. It's a model of all five boroughs, done at 1:1,200 scale — the Empire State building is just 15 inches tall. Again, I'm not really sure what I was expecting, but I was absolutely blown away. It's so incredibly detailed, totally frivolous and just really, really awesome.

I loved everything about Saturday and the park was one of my favorite things I've ever seen in the city. I'll definitely be back in the summer, but I'm so glad we went when we did. The park was beautiful in the snow and we basically had the whole place to ourselves. I get the sense that it isn't a super-touristy thing to do, probably because it's "all the way" in Queens, but it's relatively easy to get to, super cheap, and an all-around awesome day trip.

Now, of course, all I want to do is read about the World's Fair and collect the souvenirs. I'm sad I can't go back to 1964 (or 1939) and eat a "Bel-Gem Brussels Waffle" at the Belgian Village — maybe I'll bring one with me next time and eat it under the Unisphere.

NY Historical Society + My First Snow

Friday night was another wild night in the city — this time I went to the New York Historical Society. Like the Met the Friday before, I went by myself, and I decided to go because it was "pay-as-you-wish" from 6-8pm. I don't mind paying something, especially to support causes I appreciate, but I'm on a pretty tight budget so I'm always down for a discount. I paid $5 (the regular student price is $10) and I think it was definitely worth that. I had never been before, but I would recommend it if you're a super nerd like me. I think I was actually the youngest person there by at least 60 years, but that happens to me a lot.

They currently have a WWII exhibit that was pretty neat, but my favorite was the NY Landmarks photo series. I love learning about New York history and architecture, and I even added a few places to my "to-see" list that I hadn't known about, like Riverside Church and the Manhattan Bridge arch and colonnade.

The other highlight of the Society was a small, somewhat hidden hallway (I felt like I shouldn't be walking down it, but it's definitely part of the exhibitions) with about a dozen paintings of New York scenes from various artists/time periods. I loved all of them, but I snapped photos of my favorites.

The Historical Society is small, and took about an hour to go through — I wouldn't expect to spend much more time there, and I probably won't go back unless there's a new exhibit that strikes my fancy.

I had initially planned to walk there, because unlike the Met, the Society is pretty much in my neighborhood — Central Park West at 77th street — but when I walked out of the apartment I was surprised to find that it was snowing. It wasn't exactly snow-globe-quality, big, fluffy flakes, so much as tiny, stinging, get-in-your-eyeballs snow, so I took the subway to the 81st street stop. By the time I got out of the train, the city was beginning to get covered and I walked into Central Park for a few minutes like a giddy little kid.

I love snow, and this was my very first New York City snowfall. It was still snowing when I was done at the Historical Society, so I took the train to Washington Square Park and walked around a bit. The snow managed to make the city look more magical than usual, even at night.

Unfortunately most of it melted or was shoveled away by morning, but I'm hoping it snows again while I'm here and preferably during the day so I can venture further into the park —this has been my desktop wallpaper for months and I would love to see it this way in real life.

Oh, and I know you're probably sick of hearing me talk about it, but I'm still absolutely loving my hat — it makes all the difference in the world, and it's making winter not only bearable but actually totally fun.

Thank you, hat. You've changed my life.

Greenwich Letterpress + Subway Etiquette

I have the most amazing family and friends, and every so often I think I should let them know just how awesome they actually are. I love getting mail and I assume everyone else does too, so I decided to send thank you cards to the people that have been most instrumental in getting me to New York. On Tuesday night I went to check out the card selection at Greenwich Letterpress and although the shop is teeny tiny, it's packed with tons of amazingly cute letterpressed cards and other goodies. I wanted to buy nearly everything I saw, but I eventually narrowed down my selection to a reasonable few.

Their New York City-themed cards are particularly charming, and I'll definitely be back to buy more. They also have a great Valentine's selection right now if you're into that, and they're not far from John's Pizza and Magnolia Bakery if you want to make a night of it.

I opted to eat at the Washington Square Diner, which was totally cute and a great choice for my first solo New York dining experience. I ate my mushroom and feta omelette in the company of the one-and-only Julia Child, via the biography Dearie and felt like a real-life New Yorker. It's an enormous book and I have a hardcover copy which makes for some pretty awkward subway reading (I actually hit myself in the face taking it out of my bag one day), but I've already seen much, much worse on the train.

Like what, you ask?? Well, I know I've only been here two weeks, but I already have some pretty strong opinions if you want to hear them (um, stop reading if you don't?).

• Don't eat on the train — seriously, you can't ride two stops without breaking out your stir fry? At least all I do is complain about it in a blog post that no one is going to read — this woman actually got into a fight over eating spaghetti (story brought to my attention by my friend Trent, who also abhors subway eaters). The video is not available, but I can most definitely identify with the sentiment, "What kind of animals eat on the train?" Exceptions: coffee or non-offensive candy.
• Don't make out on the train — I've seen this happen a disturbing amount of times in the last two weeks. You're not as hot as you think you are, you're gross. 
• Don't opt for (very) public transportation if you don't know how to bathe yourself — this is obviously always going to be a problem, but I have had to change cars no less than three times this week alone because of my unfortunate proximity to overwhelming body odor. No. Thanks.

So this post started out being about Greenwich Letterpress and their super cute greeting cards and ended up being a rant against the hungry, sex-starved, smellies of the world. Welcome to my brain — and please leave your stir fry at the door.

I Bought a Hat

In case you haven't noticed, or you're one of those people that live in an annoyingly warm climate (I don't want to hear it, ok??), it's been pretty cold this week. Almost every day I've woken up to a nagging little red exclamation point on my Weather.com app that warns me that I will freeze and die of hypothermia immediately upon stepping outdoors.

Well, I'm currently in New York and sometimes staying indoors all day is just not an option. Ok, it kind of is for me because I'm working from my apartment, but yesterday I needed stamps so I had to walk to the post office. Life is just hard sometimes, you know?

At the beginning of this frigid week, I had decided that I should probably buy a hat. Simple enough right? Well, I hate hats for one. And they hate me right back. Put a hat on my teeny, tiny, short-haired head and I look like either a 12-year-old boy or a cancer patient. Many people have tried to convince me over the years of the merits of hats, to no avail. But I decided to give this whole hat thing another try, however, and set out on a mission to find the perfect one on Wednesday after work.

Macy's may not have had a hat for me, but at least their escalators are wooden.

I went to 34th street because of its concentration of relatively cheap clothing stores and thought I'd have my pick of the best winter hats in the world. It's January in New York City after all right? Well, I went to about ten stores — Macy's, H&M, Forever 21, Old Navy, etc. — and found not one single decent winter hat. The selection was terrible — I actually found more swimsuits than I did hats. I get that fashion moves fast, but seriously, it's still January. I even went into a K-Mart, you guys. I came to New York from Ohio, ended up in a K-Mart and even they didn't have a hat for me. As a last resort I trekked all the way to Brooklyn just to go to Target, thinking they would most certainly have what I needed —nope.

I went home sad, cold and hatless thinking I was right to hate them all along.

Then yesterday, after one very cold walk to the post office, I stopped into an American Apparel a few blocks from my apartment. Hats were far from my mind, but hats are what I found. An entire wall, in fact, of perfectly suitable hats, in every color imaginable. I grabbed a Mozart-colored (gray) one, of course, tried it on — and I didn't hate it! I might have even liked it a little. The girl at the counter rang me up and asked if I'd like the tags cut off — I must have looked as cold as I felt.

I put on the hat and walked over to Riverside Park and felt warmer than I had any right to. After five minutes I was a convert. Now I totally understand why so many people in the city have been wearing hats — why didn't someone tell me about this sooner? I feel like I can go anywhere now, weather be damned. You're not the boss of me, cold, I have a hat! 

Now if someone could just solve the problem of hat hair, I'd be really set.