Cold Spring Cemetery

The weather has finally been appropriately spring-like and warm, so we've been trying to get outside every chance we can get. Two weekends ago my dude and I decided to go 1.5 hrs. upstate to Cold Spring, NY for a hike. Of course when I did a little bit of research, I found a cemetery about a mile from the Metro North station, so we added it to the itinerary.

Cold Spring is an adorable town on the Hudson River, with a Main Street containing a few antique stores, a bar, a deli, and a coffee shop. The cemetery was established in 1862—it wasn't as historical or as crumbling as I prefer my cemeteries to be, but there were a few highlights that made it definitely worth seeking out if you're ever in the area.

My favorite section of the cemetery was a seemingly-abandoned portion set off from the main area. The majority of the cemetery was very well-maintained, but there was a mausoleum and a handful of graves up a hill that looked strangely out of place. The first thing I noticed was the mausoleum because the door was wide open. This isn't something I'm used to seeing so I was super excited to check it out. Disappointingly there wasn't anything inside of the mausoleum, but it was still super creepy with its rusty door inexplicably propped open by a rock.

The oddly-placed graves were covered in leaves and mostly belonged to the Young family. Some of their headstones were quite intriguing, with my favorites being "Annie Weir Young, Student and Mystic," and "J. Henry Weir Young, Asst. Physician Bellevue Hospital, Died of Disease Contracted in the Discharge of Duty."

Another feature of the cemetery was a row of elaborate mausoleums (and an excellent receiving tomb), which I'm not really used to seeing in more rural, smaller cemeteries like Cold Spring. I noticed that while none of them were completely open like the one on the hill, a few of them had gates instead of full, solid doors. It was mentioned that it might have something to do with the fact that we weren't in the city anymore, so security was less of a concern, but whatever the reason it made spying inside that much easier, which I always appreciate.

I really started to notice some great typography towards the end of our walk, which is always one of my favorite parts of any cemetery visit. There is a remarkable amount of variation from stone to stone in style, technique and materials which I find endlessly fascinating. I love sneaking cemetery visits into my trip itineraries—in East Hampton or Philadelphia or Sleepy Hollow—and I'm so grateful to have found someone who is game for a creepy little detour every now and then.

Conservatory Garden

The Conservatory Garden in Central Park is one of my very favorite places. Three years ago, the tulips there changed my life and it's been awing me in every season since. The flowers and trees around the city have been struggling a bit this year, however, with the cold weather lingering on ... and on and on.

I thought it was about time to check out what was blooming in the Conservatory Garden a few days ago during my lunch break, and I wasn't disappointed. The main circle of tulips—usually packed with multi-color flowers—was mostly filled with white daffodils. Daffodils aren't my favorite flowers, but en masse they really were beautiful.

The southern half of the garden is much more colorful and filled with tulips of all different colors currently in full bloom. I think I must have a sort of flower amnesia because every spring I'm amazed by the varieties and feel like it's my first time ever seeing most of them. I'm usually drawn to the darker, more somber colors but this time I couldn't get enough of the pale peach and yellow tulips.

The lilac trees (my favorite) are just barely beginning to bloom but they still smell incredible. The cherry blossoms are also a few weeks from peak bloom, but the pink magnolia trees are spectacular. I've already forgotten what it's like to feel desperately cold while dodging piles of frozen trash that covered the city this winter, which is certainly no small feat.

Dachshund Fest 2015

Sometime last week the Lord planted a photo in Francesca's Instagram feed that mentioned the upcoming Dachshund Spring Fiesta in Washington Square Park. She showed it to me, we immediately made plans to go and on Saturday we met up prepared to see more wiener dogs in hot dog costumes than we could handle. Unfortunately we ended up seeing exactly zerodachshunds in buns—we squealed with joy upon thinking we had finally found one only to realize it was an impostor (chihuahua).

Other than the bun fiasco, however, the two-hour event was a complete and total delight. I kept repeating over and over "my mouth hurts from smiling so much," and there isn't a better way to describe how the gathering of so many dachshunds in one place made me feel.

I was surprised by the variety of colors and sizes on display, although I will always prefer my dachshunds miniature and short-haired. We did see some really unique color combinations, including the new-to-me "Isabella" (hi Big Al!) and a few all-black dachshunds that were really beautiful.

The weather was really beautiful on Saturday, and since the event started at noon the direct sunlight was causing the most amazing shadows. I became slightly obsessed with capturing the perfect wiener dog shadow—is there anything better than the classic shape of a dachshund?

Although not as perfect as buns, there were some pretty wonderful outfits—a Pope, a skunk, a reindeer, a three-headed, three-eyed dog, a motorcycle dude in a Harley jacket and jeans, and a variety of really adorable sweaters/sweatshirts.

I have always heard that dachshunds tend to be mean, but that wasn't our experience at all. Every dog we met was extremely friendly, happy and maybe just a bit overwhelmed by all the new friends in the park—which also does a good job of further explaining how Francesca and I felt when we left.

NYBG: Orchid Show 2015

Sunday was the last day for the Orchid Show at the New York Botanical Gardens and I had been meaning to go for some time. I renewed my NYBG membership last Christmas and I try not to miss an opportunity to go. This was my third consecutive year seeing the Orchid Show, which is—in my opinion—their best show.

This year's show was set up a bit differently than the past two. The theme was "Chandeliers" and a lot of the orchids were arranged in large baskets dangling from the conservatory ceilings. It was also organized differently and took you through the entire conservatory space clockwise instead of counter-clockwise.

I was initially disappointed by the sparse and kind of shriveled up orchids, and I was afraid that waiting until closing day had been a mistake. But the reverse layout meant that they saved the best for last and it wasn't until the end of the show that I was as wowed as I had been the previous two years.

The orchid show is my favorite because it's a spectacular show, but also because after such long and brutal winters in the city, it is a very welcome jolt of color and a great way to shake off any residual winter blues. Very suddenly the entire city seems to be in bloom and I couldn't be happier that it's finally starting to look and feel like spring.

2013 Orchid Show / 2014 Orchid Show

Easter Parade, Part Two: Dogs

As much as I enjoyed the elaborate bonnets at the Easter parade, my favorite participants were by far the dogs. I've always considered myself a cat person, but I have to admit that lately New York has turned me more and more over to the dog side of things.

The main appeal of dogs is definitely the ability to dress them up—rain coats, boots, hoodies, hats, backpacks—New York dogs are way more fashionable than I'll ever be. That is especially true of the dogs that came out on Sunday decked in their Easter finest and I could have spent days photographing and trying not to smoosh all of their adorable faces into my face.

I tried to be respectful and ask the names of most of the dogs I was photographing and I had the pleasure of meeting Chloe, Charro, Fred, Pink Dog Frankie and Puccini. I like my dogs small and smooth/short-haired, so of course the pugs and chihuahuas were my favorite. I was disappointed that I didn't see at least one dachshund, which made me want one even more than I already do (to dress as an Easter ham perhaps?).

The tiny top hats, bonnets, pearls, boas, sunglasses and bunny ears just about killed me and it seemed like I was spotting a new dog every few minutes that would make me squeal with delight. Although I don't know how nice it is to dye your dog completely pink, most of them were pretty chill and didn't seem to mind all of the attention or the ridiculous outfits.

Although I still adore Mozart, I don't foresee her being cool with me strapping an Easter bonnet on her next year and pushing her down Fifth Avenue in a stroller—but if anyone has a dachshund they're not using, let me know.

Easter Parade, Part One: Bonnets

Morbid Anatomy Museum: Dioramas

I already wrote about the incredible Collector's Cabinet exhibit at the Morbid Anatomy Museum, and I mentioned that the centerpieces of the collection were two amazing dioramas. The taxidermy scenes were originally part of a collection belonging to Sam Sanfillippo, owner of the Cress Funeral Home in Wisconsin. When Sam died, his collection was auctioned off and I'll always regret not knowing about its existence sooner. I do feel lucky, however, that I got to revel in the two that I did, and I'm still having a hard time comprehending how wonderful they were, even a few weeks later.

The two scenes were "The Woodland Fair," a collection of taxidermy chipmunks and an untitled bar scene full of squirrels in various stages of inebriation. In the Woodland Fair, the chipmunks are enjoying a carnival—riding a Ferris wheel, carrying balloons and handing out cotton candy. There is even a "topless girlie show," whose participants are actually wearing more clothing than any of the other fairgoers.

The fair scene also includes a corner bar and grill with a smoking patron (Louie?) and miniature cans of beer. Chipmunk attendees of all sizes hold hands, ride trains and sample treats—all for the low admission price of just 5 seeds.

The squirrel saloon scene is slightly less jovial but no less elaborate than the Woodland Fair. Squirrels in all sizes and colors enjoy a cold one, dance cheek-to-cheek, smoke pipes and comfort each other when they've imbibed a bit too much.

It's nearly impossible to pick a favorite, but I really love the slot machine-playing squirrel, and the balloon-holding chipmunk. The attention to detail in these scenes is really remarkable—from the marbled mirrors and miniature liquor bottles to the outfits and poses, everything is so perfect you sometimes forget that you're actually looking at real animals.

I'll always regret missing out on the entire Cress Funeral home collection and experience, but I'm so glad I got to see a tiny part of it in person—photos really just don't do things like this justice—and I didn't have to go all the way to Wisconsin to do so.

Bonus taxidermy: One more stand-out from the exhibition was this kitten with two faces (four eyes and two mouths) from another famous taxidermist, Walter Potter. The tiny creature only lived for seven days, but thanks to Potter and the Morbid Anatomy Museum, I was able to meet him (her?)—definitely a highlight in a collection filled with home runs.

Easter Parade, Part One: Bonnets

On Sunday JMP and I went to check out the Easter "parade" on 5th Avenue. I put parade in quotes because it's not really a traditional parade, but more of a huge street party. It was actually a little more chaotic than I was expecting with spectators out-numbering participants by a large margin, but once we embraced the craziness of it all it was really fun.

As with any costume-based event, there were some real stand-out bonnets, a lot of pretty good ones and some that made you wonder why the person even tried at all. I actually wish there were even more bonnets than the ones we managed to see but there's a good chance we missed some great ones in the crowd.

The whole scene was really a photographer's dream—with everyone posing constantly for photos—and it was really fun to feel zero shame sticking my camera wherever I felt like to get the shots I wanted. There were even moments when I thought it might be fun to go all out and make my own bonnet next year, but I don't think I could deal with the pushy crowds and all of the attention for very long.

Of course as with every public New York event, there were people who were dressed up in costumes that had little—if anything at all—to do with Easter. The cat-on-head guy is usually charging for photos in Times Square and you have to try pretty hard with your craft supplies to top a live animal bonnet. I heard someone ask the guy with the spiked cap how long it took him to make his elaborate costume and he replied "Oh, this? I just had it."

Coney Island: Opening Day 2015

Sunday was opening day at Coney Island, even if it snowed on Saturday and it feels as if we're months away from acceptable beach weather. We were a little slow moving on Sunday morning, so we missed the ceremonial egg cream christening and the Cyclone breaking down (it was closed when we arrived), but we did have time for a Nathan's hot dog and to see the freak show.

The freak show was a definite highlight despite (or maybe because of?) the fact that I was tricked into participating, which is very high on my list of worst nightmares. The host asked the audience to raise their hands if they were having fun, which of course I did and was promptly thanked for volunteering and placed in an "electric" chair. I guess you can call me Electra now, a name I think I earned after I lit a torch with a spark from my tongue (along with a few other "shocking" feats—and yes, it hurt a little).

I could spend the rest of my life at Coney Island and still never tire of its kitschy signs, wonderful imagery and mix of new, old and somewhere in between. We got our fortunes told by Grandma (a must), poked around the Coney Island History Project's new exhibit and considered a ride on the Wonder Wheel, but decided to save it for a warmer day.

I always think it's not possible for me to love Coney Island any more than I already do, yet somehow every trip makes me love it more and more. I can't wait for the day when it's finally warm enough to enjoy the beach part of the neighborhood in addition to the amusements and when we're able to eat our hot dogs without completely losing feeling in our hands.

More Coney Island:  Opening Day 2014 | Mermaid Parade | Halloween

Shinran Statue / Amiable Child Monument

A few weekends ago I was walking around Riverside Drive and decided to consult my Roadside America app to see if there was anything interesting in the neighborhood I hadn't discovered yet. I found two things that were close to where I was, the Shinran Statue and the Amiable Child Monument.

The Shinran Statue currently resides outside of a Buddhist church on Riverside Drive, but it once stood outside of a temple in Hiroshima, Japan. The statue managed to survive the atomic bombing of Hiroshima, despite being located 1.5 miles from the center of the blast and was shipped to New York in 1955. It is definitely a statue that I might not have looked twice at if I was just passing by, but there are plaques explaining its significance, if you don't happen to scour apps for odd roadside attractions like I do.

Next I walked a few blocks north on Riverside Drive, right across from Grant's Tomb to see the Amiable Child Monument. "Thought to be the only single-person private grave on city-owned land in New York City," the monument was erected to commemorate a small boy who died in 1797. It was threatened with the construction of Grant's Tomb, but saved after the public objected.

The monument is small and a little hidden—I walked right past it a few times—but it's fenced off and has a historical marker plaque next to it. It is really odd to see a headstone all alone in the middle of New York. Nothing seems to last for very long here and it's hard to fathom how it has remained all these years when so many great buildings in the city have been demolished in the name of progress. There was a few coins, a stone and even a Hershey Kiss on the top of the stone when I visited. One of the iron bars of the fence was bent in a way that is extra creepy whenever gravestones are involved.

I am eternally grateful to live in a city in which a leisurely weekend stroll can include things that are a little bit historical, a little bit weird and always worth a stop.

Morbid Anatomy Museum: Collector's Cabinet

On Saturday JMP joined me for diner breakfast, a trip to the Morbid Anatomy Museum and post-museum pie at Four and Twenty Blackbirds, which is pretty much my ideal Saturday (or any day). The Collector's Cabinet exhibit at the museum was closing on Sunday and I hadn't seen it yet but I'm so glad we went because it far exceeded my expectations.

Like the museum's previous exhibition, The Art of Mourning, the Collector's Cabinet occupied a single room but it was expertly curated and every piece was fascinating. I lost track of how much time we spent looking at, and photographing all of the curiosities, but I definitely could have spent all day in just that one room.

The centerpieces of the exhibit were two life-changing taxidermy dioramas, which more than deserve their very own post as soon as I'm done fully digesting how extraordinarily awesome they both were. They also had a neck tattoo in a jar, a fully-articulated skeleton, a very organized brush collection, wooden prosthetic arms, a plaster death cast, a talking skull, a two-headed calf and so many other weird and wonderful trinkets on display.

We also checked out the adjoining library space, which itself is packed with enough stuff to make a visit to the museum more than worth your time. I am so glad that I became a member back when the museum opened in June—not only because I now get in for free, but because never has there been a place so deserving of my support.

The museum has only gotten better since it opened and I was pleased to see so many people there on Saturday. Every one that works there is always so kind and helpful and the gift shop is full of books and housewares and art that I definitely don't need but so desperately want. I never thought there would be a place like the Morbid Anatomy Museum where all of my creepy interests are celebrated and nurtured and I already can't wait to go back.

Williamsburg

Recently, I met Jim for breakfast in the East Village one morning and we decided to go on a mini-adventure. We chose Williamsburg because it was just a few stops from where we were on the L train. The last time we were both there was on a sweltering day in the summer to see the Kara Walker exhibit at the Domino Sugar Factory. The part of the factory that housed the exhibit has since been demolished, and it started snowing quite aggressively a short time after we arrived, which cut our visit short.

When everyone is crammed into coffee shops and brunch spots, walking around looking into the windows very much feels like you've stumbled upon a sort of "hipster zoo." I'm sure Jim and I are really no different, but I never feel at ease in Williamsburg. Which is convenient, because I certainly can't afford to live there, but I do like to visit on occasion.

The cute boutiques and fancy coffee shops are great, but the real charm of Williamsburg is still there if you look hard enough—in its rusty waterfront, brick buildings with wonderful ghost signs and clever graffiti. Once you leave the main Bedford drag, things get a lot more industrial and interesting. Jim and I walked along the East River waterfront for as long as we could stand the snow that somewhat impossibly was blowing in our faces, no matter which direction we were going.

We stumbled on an old diner that I only vaguely knew existed—now Cafe de la Esquina, a Mexican restaurant that we added to the list—and I found a really excellent manhole cover, which always makes me happy. We also walked past a lot that had a random headstone sitting by itself, which was kind of odd but I was into it.

Winter Roundup

I had thought that we had seen that last major snowfall a few weeks ago, but while I was cruising my way back to the States, New York got its first snowfall of the spring. I'm kind of sad I missed it, but I was able to take a walk on Saturday and enjoy some of it, although most of the snow had melted off the trees by the afternoon.

I hesitate to declare again that I think we've seen our last snow of the season, but in the meantime, I was sorting through some of my photos and found some of past snowfalls that I hadn't shared.

At the beginning of February I walked to work through the North Woods in Central Park on a very icy morning. It had snowed, then rained, then everything froze which made for a treacherous, but very beautiful commute. I really love the wildness of the North Woods, although by "wild" I mean as wild as you can get in the middle of Manhattan.

When I'm not walking through the North Woods, I walk along the reservoir. I've walked it a few times this winter and it's been frozen and snow-covered, which makes it look like a long, uninterrupted stretch of land. My friend Jim said it reminded him of the salt flats in Utah and it's really quite beautiful. The running track has been snow-covered and frozen as well, which means that I was the only person crazy enough to be walking along it on most mornings.

I'll never get over how wonderful this city can be in the winter when you feel as if you have the entire city to yourself. According to the calendar it's already spring and I'm sure before we know it, it will feel as hot as a dog's mouth in the city and we'll all forget what snow even felt like.

Trinity Cemetery and Mausoleum: Winter

After being once again denied access to Woodlawn Cemetery the weekend because of "hazardous conditions,"—aka the beautiful, melting and not-at-all-hazardous snow—I headed to the next closest cemetery that I knew of to get my snowy tombstone fix.

 I had been to Trinity Cemetery, Manhattan's only active cemetery, in March of last year for the first time and I hadn't been back since. Thankfully the gates were open, there was no obnoxious guard to stop me from walking in and more than enough snow to make me happy again. Some of the pathways were cleared and others were not, but I came prepared with boots and happily forged my own way through nearly a feet of snow.

The snow was piled against the mausoleums and stuck in the recesses of letters in the most interesting ways. Trinity is a relatively small cemetery, especially when compared to Green-Wood or Woodlawn, but it has some really wonderful mausoleums. I was particularly loving how the snow was drifted and pushed against the doors, making them look like little mountain cottages.

You never know, but I think we've probably seen the last of this winter's snow. I suppose I will never get to see Woodlawn in the winter, which is definitely a disappointment, but there are still plenty of other wonderful places that I haven't explored to keep me busy. While I still think that fall is the very best time for a cemetery walk, I have to say that winter is a close second—that is, as long as they let me in.

Brooklyn Heights

Since the very first time I set foot on the dreamy Promenade, Brooklyn Heights has been my happy place. When I used to come visit New York I would always try to fit in a visit to the neighborhood, no matter how packed my schedule. When I lived here for my two-month trial run (which ended two years ago today—!) I would trek all the way out to BK just to read my Sunday newspaper.

I was in desperate need of a spirit-lifting solo adventure recently and before walking the Manhattan Bridge or visiting Kolonihavehus, I started my day in Brooklyn Heights. I will never not get a thrill from just walking the Promenade and taking in the breathtaking views of lower Manhattan, the Brooklyn Bridge, and even—if you look hard enough—the Statue of Liberty.

Everything was still covered in snow when I went, which of course makes everything even more dreamy to me. The quiet streets are completely magical, lined with brownstones and cute colonial-style row houses, with names like Pineapple, Cranberry and Pierrepont. Truman Capote used to live in Brooklyn Heights, as did Walt Whitman and Thomas Wolfe—and I would add myself to that list in a heartbeat if I could.

Manhattan Bridge

I've walked the Manhattan Bridge a few times now, and I've really grown fond of its scrappiness—especially when compared with its classier and more popular neighbor, the Brooklyn Bridge. I love it much more now that I'm prepared for the constant train rattle and now that I know exactly how to find the pedestrian entrances and exits.

My most recent bridge walk was from Brooklyn to Manhattan, after a day spent exploring Brooklyn Heights and Dumbo. The sun was setting and it was pretty empty, which made for a really excellent walk. I will always appreciate that cyclists and pedestrians have their own sides of the bridge, which makes the walk much more leisurely.

There is always new graffiti to see on the Chinatown rooftops and on the bridge itself and the colors are really extraordinary. And no matter how many times I see it, the view of lower Manhattan and the Brooklyn Bridge will never not be spectacular to me—even if I have no idea how the Verizon monstrosity has the nerve to think it belongs in the same skyline as the dreamy Woolworth building.

Kolonihavehus, 2010

I have been seeing photos of Tom Fruin's Kolonihavehus, 2010, an installation art piece in Brooklyn Bridge park for a while and I've been meaning to see it in person. I finally got to the park recently, and it really exceeded my expectations. At first it might seem to have no real purpose, and I guess it doesn't really, but it is a delightful sight.

The garden house is made from nearly 1,000 scraps of reclaimed Plexiglass and the colors are extraordinary. I was there in the late afternoon and the sun was hitting the panels in the most wonderful ways and casting incredible rainbow shadows onto the snowy ground. 

With the Brooklyn Bridge and the Lower Manhattan skyline on the one side, and the Manhattan Bridge on the other, there is no bad viewpoint in the park. As much as I'm kind of over this arctic tundra the city has become, I am glad I got to see this piece while there is still snow on the ground—and its bright, happy colors have me dreaming even more of the impending spring.

Ellis Island Hospital: Part 4

I have thought about the incredible Ellis Island hospital tour many, many times since we took it in January. I don't imagine any tour topping it for a very long time—it was just so, so good. I've already shared my photos from inside of the abandoned hospital complex, the lonely chairs that I fell in love with and the beautiful JR art installation, but I never shared my photos from the hospital grounds.

The south side of the island isn't very large but it packs a lot into a relatively limited space. The main building, which houses the immigration museum, was restored in the 90s but the south side buildings remain in various states of decay and have never been open to visitors until now (and only as part of the hard hat tour that we took). It's kind of awesome to be able to see the unrestored buildings in the same view as the restored main hall—it's like a real-life before-and-after show.

The broken and boarded up windows, piles of forgotten construction materials, ivy-covered brick and even the lonely bird house all added to the eerie feeling of the complex. As much as I loved the buildings themselves, it's really the views from the grounds—of the Statue of Liberty, the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge and Lower Manhattan—that make the trip to Ellis Island a must-do.

I don't think I'll be able to stop thinking about this tour for a very long time (like, probably never) and I keep wondering if I should just pull the trigger and book another ticket. As cold as our tour was, I loved that we got to see it in the snow and bright winter light but I'm already dreaming of getting the chance to explore these buildings in the spring.

Hudson River Ice

On Saturday, after the diner breakfast, after the High Line and after I explored a bit of the West Side Highway, I walked back north along the Hudson River. I work on the east side of Manhattan, but I've always lived on the west side and north or south, the west side is the best side as far as I'm concerned.

The walk along the Hudson is one of my favorites, especially at this time of year. Last year it was cold enough for the Hudson to freeze (partially) and I went one day on my lunch break to check out the ice floes. This year it's been even colder for even longer and the ice floes are bigger and better than they were last year.

Although I'm quite over this bitter cold, I do love the arctic-looking landscape, and I could watch the ice bob up and down in the river for hours. It started to snow halfway through my walk and coated everything in a fresh layer of bright white—a welcome improvement to the gritty, trash-littered, black snow drifts that have been around for weeks. The East River Ferry has been experiencing problems due the ice recently—which must be frustrating—but if winter is going to stick around for a while longer, at least it's pretty to look at.