The Ohio State Reformatory: Chairs

One thing that JMP and I kept noticing as we toured the Ohio State Reformatory was all of the chairs. In almost every room that we entered, there was a chair—almost always alone and almost always a different style. I seem to always notice chairs when I'm in abandoned spaces—like the Ellis Island Hospital complex or the creepy dentist chair in the Staten Island hospital—and they add so much character and feeling to otherwise lifeless spaces.

A lone chair sets such a lonely scene, suggesting that a space's inhabitants simply got up and left, but at the same time suggesting that they may one day return. They humanize empty spaces and provide much-needed scale. We wondered if they were placed deliberately, and if so, we commend the chair-placer on duty that day—every one we came across was better than the last.

The variety of different styles kept us searching for more, and every time we found a new one we were thrilled. I'm always on the verge of becoming overwhelmed by incredible places like the Reformatory, and searching for specific things helps me stay focused. I only regret that I didn't happen to catch a ghost relaxin' in one of the chairs—catching an elusive JMP, however, was equally satisfying.

The Ohio State Reformatory

The second stop on our recent ALL CAPS EPIC ROAD TRIP OF DELIGHTS was the Ohio State Reformatory, in Mansfield, Ohio. The Reformatory opened in 1896 and housed more than 155,000 inmates until it closed in 1990. The building was designed by Cleveland architect Levi T. Scofield, combining three architectural styles; Victorian Gothic, Richardsonian Romanesque and Queen Anne. The hope was that the architecture of the complex would encourage inmates to turn away from their sinful lifestyle, embrace their spiritual lives and repent.

The Reformatory may be most famous as a filming location for the Shawshank Redemption, which has always been one of my favorite movies. Shots of the cell block were filmed at the Reformatory, and you can visit the warden's office, the space where Red has his parole reviews and the apartment where Brooks (SPOILER ALERT for a 22-year-old movie) meets his end. The movie also filmed scenes around Ohio in Ashland County, Upper Sandusky and at Malabar Farm.

The six-tiered, east cell block is the largest free-standing steel cell block in the world. The OSR reminds me a lot of Eastern State Penitentiary, although the overall layout and visitor experience is a bit different. It's mind-boggling to stand inside one of the teeny tiny cells, trying to imagine being locked inside of such a cramped space—not to mention also having to share it with another person.

In addition to two cell blocks, the Reformatory also has an entire administration wing with offices and residences. There's an old library, shower room, solitary confinement, a chapel, and a whole maze of different rooms and spooky corridors to explore. The Reformatory is often associated with paranormal activity (but what old place—especially old prison—isn't?), and they offer "Ghost Hunts," which include a tour and "independent investigating" from 8pm-5am.

This was my second visit to the Reformatory, and while I appreciate the info to be gained from a guided tour, being able to roam the place at our own pace was ideal. Mansfield is a little out of the way if you don't find yourself in Ohio often but if creeping around old abandoned places is your jam, the Reformatory is a great place to spend the afternoon —or night if you're really brave.

Eastern State Penitentiary: Part 2

Last week I shared some of my photos from the crumbling interior of the Eastern State Penitentiary in Philadelphia. ESP was operational from 1829 until 1971, was designed by John Haviland and was the largest and most expensive public structure ever constructed.

It sits in the Fairmount section of Philadelphia, and looks completely out of place nestled in a neighborhood of coffee shops and row houses. Some of the most interesting stories on the audio tour were about ESP's famous inmates, notably Al Capone and "Slick" Willie Sutton. Slick Willie was one of twelve inmates who escaped via a tunnel in April of 1945. Eleven of them were eventually recaptured and one—James Grace—even asked to be let back in.

The tunnel has recently been excavated (after being filled in following the escape) and you can actually walk inside of the cell and see the opening. A line on the pavement outside traces the tunnel's route, under the ground and past the outside walls.

ESP is filled with fascinating stories like this, but my favorite inmate is definitely Pep the dog. In 1924, Pep was sentenced to life in prison for killing the Pennsylvania Governor's cat—or at least that's what a newspaper reporter wrote at the time. The real story is slightly less dramatic, and has Pep being sent to the prison to help rehabilitate prisoners (and because he was chewing on the Governor's couch cushions). Either way, there is a mugshot of Pep, which is pretty fantastic.

ESP's most famous prisoner, however, is probably Al Capone, who spent 8 months at Eastern State in 1929-1930. They've recreated his cell as it looked when he was there, complete with fancy furniture, an oriental rug, soft lighting, artwork and a radio.

Another cell even has a full-sized tree growing through the wall, and it continues into the neighboring cell. There is so much history at Eastern State and there was something fascinating in every single corner I peeked into. The day I went was beautiful and sunny, and you get to wander the grounds as freely as you do the interior. I hesitate to say that I thoroughly enjoyed being inside of a prison, but even if I was sad to leave, I'm glad I at least had the option.

Eastern State Penitentiary: Part 1

Eastern State Penitentiary: Part 1

A few weeks ago my friend Jim and I went to Philadelphia for the weekend. I had never been before, but I had been planning a trip for many years so we had a very full agenda. Number one destination on my list was the Mütter Museum, followed closely by Eastern State Penitentiary. I had been to the Mansfield State Reformatory back when I lived in Ohio, and absolutely loved it. I always heard ESP described as similar to Mansfield but with even more historical significance. It would be very difficult to pick which one I liked more—since they were both amazing—but I will say that ESP managed to exceed even my high expectations.

Jim was off visiting family, so I spent most of Sunday at ESP, which was very easy to do. I loved that there was no guided tour—I got to wander at my own pace, aka take a million photos while trying not to be overwhelmed by all of the incredible textures, colors and artifacts. About half of the penitentiary is currently off-limits, but there is still so much to see.

The peeling layers of paint, crumbling walls and cells in various stages of decay are all so incredibly photogenic and beautiful. An audio tour is included in the price of admission (only $10 for "students") and it was really interesting, not too long and mostly narrated by Steve Buscemi.

ESP does special tours around Halloween, which are probably really wonderful and completely terrifying. At one point during my visit, I was listening to a portion of the audio guide that discussed the various instances of paranormal activity that have been reported at ESP over the years. As I was leaning through a gate so I could get a closer look at a long, empty corridor, a droplet of water dropped on my head. I'm very grateful that I was alone (maybe I wasn't?) because I jumped backwards in terror like a total baby—a facet of my personality which is sometimes at odds with my love of all things creepy.

I could have spent so many more hours wandering inside and out, but I had to leave eventually to catch a train. The hospital wing (no. 3) is one of the areas not currently open to the public but a sign posted near the gate (the one with the amazing red cross) promised that it would be open in the future. I loved Philadelphia in general and there were a lot of things I didn't get to on my list, but a return visit to Eastern State Penitentiary is definitely a must.

Eastern State Penitentiary: Part 2