Mermaid Parade 2018

This was my fourth Coney Island Mermaid parade in five years of living in New York. It's something I look forward to every year and I put it on my calendar as soon as the date is announced. I can't remember why I missed 2015—maybe the weather wasn't great—but this year the weather way perfect and the boardwalk was packed. 

This was definitely the most crowded Mermaid Parade in recent memory, although we were able to get a front row spot on the boardwalk without getting there too early. Since this is a parade, there was inevitably a point where someone tried to squeeze their toddler (and themselves) next to us and I've been to enough parades to give this advice to anyone thinking of doing the same: don't. I understand kids are small and can't see over adults but having a toddler is not a free pass to be an inconsiderate asshole.

I've been attending events like this in New York long enough to start recognizing people (and animals). There are people who change it up every year, people who wear the same costumes and there are also those people that you see at every New York event in the same costume, regardless of theme—the MetroCard man, the wizard, etc.

I'm blown away by the joy and creativity that the Mermaid Parade attracts every year. Most parades are overrun with corporations or politicians pushing their agenda—the only agenda on display in Coney Island is fun. Ok, maybe that's not entirely true—current events-inspired costumes like Ruth Wader Finsburg fighting for "seaquality for all" and "reel justice" have been increasing in frequency the last couple years.

The grand marshals of the parade this year were the writer Neil Gaiman and his wife, The Dresden Dolls' Amanda Palmer (along with their young son). I will say that I'm still surprised each year at how long the parade is—I don't normally stay to see the end. The pacing of the parade also seemed to be off this year with huge gaps in between marchers. It was so bad that the crowd kept thinning as people mistakenly thought the parade had ended in between breaks.

Every year I say that the next might be the year in which I am no longer just a spectator, but an active participant in the parade, but I think next year really might be my year. I'm planning on taking my Coney Island-themed Halloween costume from last year and modifying it slightly to fit with the sea theme—stay tuned!

Mermaid Parade 2017

The Coney Island Mermaid Parade is one of my very favorite New York events. I was bummed when I first moved here that it had already passed, and also in 2015 when bad weather kept me away. I was so happy that I was back from our trip in time to catch this year's parade, and I met my mom at Tom's on the boardwalk for pre-parade pancakes on Saturday.

When I left my apartment my Weather Channel app (which just lies) said there was little chance of rain, but during breakfast it started to pour. It seemed as if it would never let up but I was reluctant to leave since I just love the parade so much. As we were walking toward the subway, it started to clear and we turned around just in time to secure a spot on the boardwalk and catch the beginning of the parade.

This year's grand marshals were Blondie's Debbie Harry and Christ Stein, and except for a few bouts of sprinkles the rain mostly held off and the show went on. And what a spectacular show it always is—hands down the best parade in New York (or maybe anywhere). What makes the Mermaid Parade so special is that there are a few groups and corporations represented, but for the most part it's just people being their weird, creative, authentic selves. It's everything I love about Coney Island and New York in one afternoon. 

People mostly stick to the nautical theme, but any gathering in New York will attract at least a few people who are off-topic. This is the third time I've been to this parade (you can see my previous photos here and here) and while I did see a few repeats, it mostly feels brand new each year. The rain delay didn't seem to keep anyone away, and in fact my mom and I both thought that this year's seemed bigger and better than ever.

The Mermaid Parade is all about joy and inclusiveness, but it was no surprise to see several Donald Trump parodies (one had very accurate baby hands and one I recognized from the Intrepid protest). There were at least two groups that did a nautical take on the Handmaid's Tale, which I thought was so perfect, and at times the parade could have almost been mistaken for a protest march. 

Every year I think about actually participating in the Mermaid Parade, which goes against my strong aversion to "participating" in general, but that's the thing about the Mermaid Parade. It's just such an incredibly joyful experience populated by all the right kind of people. People of every shape, size, color and age are welcome and celebrated for their creativity and commitment to just being themselves. 

Polar Bear Plunge

The Coney Island Polar Bear club was founded in 1903 by Bernarr MacFadden, a fitness buff who believed that "a dip in the ocean during the winter can be a boon to one's stamina, virility and immunity." The 114-year-old club is the oldest winter bathing organization in the US and they swim in the Atlantic every Sunday from November through April. Every year, on New Year's day, thousands of people join the club in taking the Polar Bear Plunge.

This year the weather was very cooperative—45 degrees and sunny—and more than 2,500 people took the plunge, including my dude. He'd done the plunge a few years ago, and this year I volunteered to hold his towel while silently hoping he didn't shock his body into premature cardiac arrest. I am normally freezing while fully-clothed snuggled under a pile of blankets and I finally got up the courage to swim in the ocean this summer for the first time in 20ish years (on one of the hottest days of the year), so I was more than happy to offer assistance from the sidelines.

The main plunge takes place at 1pm, but people were running in and out of the Atlantic the entire time we were there. Seeing so many people taking the plunge (even children) almost made me wish I had brought my swimsuit—until of course, people emerged seconds later, running for their towels and yelling obscenities (but laughing, mostly).

I'd been to the Polar Bear Plunge once before as a spectator, and even if you have no interest in taking the plunge, it's worth the trip. Like anything at Coney Island, the event feels a little scrappy and very New York. I never need to be asked twice to spend an afternoon at Coney Island, even in the off-season, and I couldn't have asked for a better way to start 2017.

Coney Island: At Night + Fireworks

I've been to Coney Island more times than I can count, but until Monday I had never been at night. I'm not a huge night person—I go to bed around 10pm most nights—so it's rare that I'm still exploring the city when it starts to get dark, especially during the summer. We decided sort of last-minute to go to Coney Island for the Fourth of July fireworks, thinking that it would be more chill than trying to squeeze ourselves into a viewing area for the Macy's fireworks over the East River. Coney Island was still packed but there is a lot of space, so it ended up being my most stress-free city fireworks yet.

Coney Island is wonderful by day, but by night it's a glittering, flashy, bright, magical wonderland. All of the neon signs are beautiful in the sunlight, but they're really made to be illuminated. It was nice to see the Wonder Wheel and the Cyclone alive again, and it's hard to imagine that just a few months ago they sat still, stripped of their cars during the off-season

.

Seeing Coney Island during a summer holiday was a nice counterpoint to the off-season or non-peak times in which I usually find myself at there, and where I'm typically annoyed by loud noises and crowds, I found myself only delighted at the energy of it all. All of the games and rides were up and running and I love that even in the days of video games and virtual reality, there is still a place in this world for balloon darts and "Feed the Clown."

The fireworks were lovely—long enough to satisfy my American need to see explosions, and short enough that I was in bed by 11pm. It might just be projection or a sign that my brain officially thinks in emoji now, but I could swear that I captured a heart-eyes smiley face in the firework above—do you see it too? Now that I know how beautiful the boardwalk can be at night, I want to go back and practice some long-exposure photography and I'm thrilled to be able to have an entirely new side of Coney Island to explore.

Coney Island Art Walls 2016

Last year was the first year for the Coney Island Art Walls and they're back this year with (mostly) new artwork. My mom and I walked around before the Mermaid Parade, and there were barely any people around, but after the parade the place was packed. In addition to the walls, there are food and drink vendors and a stage, making it a great place to hang out and drink a $13 (!!) plastic cup of sangria, if you're into that (after standing in the sun watching the parade, we sure were).

I'm always amazed at what people can do with spray paint, although some of the walls this year were a bit more dimensional. I love the one that reminded me of a more elaborate Wall of Stuff from the classic Marc Summers Nickelodeon show, "What Would You Do," although I'm sure that's not what they were going for, or if anyone but me would ever get/agree with that reference.

I loved the grotesque Ronald McDonald and all of the classic Coney Island imagery, but as always my favorite was the new one by Marie Roberts, who paints all of the classic sideshow banners for the Coney Island museum and the current-day freakshow. Her paintings are the perfect representation of what I love most about Coney Island—it's a little old, a little scrappy, a little weird and so unlike anything else.

Coney Island Art Walls 2015

Coney Island Mermaid Parade 2016

Last year, crappy weather prevented me from going to the Mermaid Parade in Coney Island, but I've been eager to go back since I first went in 2014. Started in 1983, the Mermaid Parade is so uniquely New York that I can't really imagine it taking place anywhere else but Coney Island. It marks the unofficial start of summer, featuring more than 3,000 artists from all over paying homage to mermaids, Neptune and all things of-the-sea—and because this is New York, pretty much anything else.

Every year a new Queen Mermaid and King Neptune are crowned. In 2014 it was Mayor deBlasio's children, Dante and Chiara, and this year model Hailey Clauson and President and CEO of the Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce, Carlo A. Scissura, took the reins. The best part about the Mermaid Parade, however, is how very unlike every other parade it is—there are no corporate floats, no one passing out flyers, no one soliciting votes. I suppose it does feel a little like the Halloween Parade, but more organized, joyful and well-lit.

As expected, there were a lot of pasties, boobs and painted bodies on display, and I really love seeing a variety of shapes, sizes and ages being their beautiful selves. If you ever need a healthy dose of body positivity, look no further than the Mermaid Parade. Mermaids are not inherently feminist in nature—those tails look awfully binding and never forget that the Prince falls in love with Ariel once she can no longer speak—but I love how inclusive and celebratory the parade feels.

Coney Island has always been the perfect place for people to get weird, and in any parade there are always people that go slightly off-topic. I saw a few parade regulars, a few people who obviously just wanted to be basically naked in public and a few people who tried their best to stretch the theme to meet their personal agenda. There were a few topical costumes too, including "Mermaids for Orlando," a David Bowie tribute group, Mr. and Miss Seaweed (who somehow scored number 420) and "Sea Change 2016" featuring Hillary, Bernie and Trump stand-ins.

I wonder how long it will take before I decide that I should start actually participating in these parades instead of merely attending them. The Thanksgiving Day Parade will always feel nostalgic to me, I love all of the dogs at the Easter Parade and the Chinese Lunar New Year Parade is a great way to feel as if you've traveled halfway across the world without leaving New York—but you'd be hard pressed to find a parade as creative, vibrant and joyful as the Mermaid Parade.

More Mermaids: 2014 Mermaid Parade

Coney Island: Off-Season

After being cooped up inside for a few days recovering from a little something, I very much needed to clear out the cobwebs. I decided to go to Coney Island and as expected, its off-season grit and grime was exactly what I needed. There are a few stores and restaurants open all-year-round, but the parks and rides are currently closed until March 20th this year.

I've posted about Coney Island numerous times before, but I feel like I could go forever and still never run out of interesting things to see and photograph. The weather was spring like, despite still being February, and there were quite a few people on the boardwalk, but less on the side streets and avenues.

It was strange to see the Wonder Wheel stripped of its cars and sitting silent and still. The Cyclone looked downright abandoned, which of course I love because I get to revel in the sadness of that idea, while knowing full well that in a few short weeks it will be up and running again, giving whiplash to anyone with $9 to spare.

Coney Island: September

Right now it's full-speed ahead to fall and then magical snow and then mutant piles of ice and trash that in some places probably haven't even fully melted from last winter. This summer whizzed by, as time is fond of doing now that I'm old, and it seems like just yesterday we were eating hot dogs with our gloves on celebrating a very chilly opening day at Coney Island.

We made it back a few months later, and although Coney Island doesn't officially close until after Halloween, it felt like a little goodbye to summer. It was still very hot and we sipped a soda from Nathan's, got our fortunes told by Grandma, rode the Wonder Wheel, walked the boardwalk, browsed the Phoenicia Flea and saw the Coney Art Walls.

There were hints that the season is coming to a close—t-shirt sales, premature Halloween decor, a chilly breeze at the top of the Wonder Wheel—but I'll never tire of seeing Coney Island in any season. We passed up the line outside of the new Wahlburgers location (is it that good?) for pizza at Totonno's, and I was thrilled to finally cross it off my list of classic pizzas to try. It was really good—maybe not totally worth the long wait and shoddy service—although it was the perfect end to a perfect day in the perfectly imperfect Coney Island.

Coney Island: Art Walls

Last weekend we went to Coney Island to see the Phoenicia Flea—which turned out to be significantly smaller than I had hoped, but I finally got to see the Art Walls, "an outdoor museum of street art featuring the work of 34 celebrated artists."

The exhibition is exactly what it sounds like—34 free-standing walls that double as canvasses for a variety of different styles, words and imagery. Each wall is illuminated with overhanging lights like it's in a museum. I loved that each wall is different, and while I prefer some styles to others, they make a nice collection when viewed all together.

My favorites were the ones depicting classic Coney Island iconography, particularly the "Congress of Curious Peoples" by Marie Roberts. I adore her sideshow-banner style, and her paintings are one of my favorite parts of current-day Coney Island. The Art Walls definitely fit in with the hodge podge of new and old, artful and tacky, weird and family-friendly attractions that make Coney Island one of my favorite places in the city.

Coney Island: Opening Day 2015

Sunday was opening day at Coney Island, even if it snowed on Saturday and it feels as if we're months away from acceptable beach weather. We were a little slow moving on Sunday morning, so we missed the ceremonial egg cream christening and the Cyclone breaking down (it was closed when we arrived), but we did have time for a Nathan's hot dog and to see the freak show.

The freak show was a definite highlight despite (or maybe because of?) the fact that I was tricked into participating, which is very high on my list of worst nightmares. The host asked the audience to raise their hands if they were having fun, which of course I did and was promptly thanked for volunteering and placed in an "electric" chair. I guess you can call me Electra now, a name I think I earned after I lit a torch with a spark from my tongue (along with a few other "shocking" feats—and yes, it hurt a little).

I could spend the rest of my life at Coney Island and still never tire of its kitschy signs, wonderful imagery and mix of new, old and somewhere in between. We got our fortunes told by Grandma (a must), poked around the Coney Island History Project's new exhibit and considered a ride on the Wonder Wheel, but decided to save it for a warmer day.

I always think it's not possible for me to love Coney Island any more than I already do, yet somehow every trip makes me love it more and more. I can't wait for the day when it's finally warm enough to enjoy the beach part of the neighborhood in addition to the amusements and when we're able to eat our hot dogs without completely losing feeling in our hands.

More Coney Island:  Opening Day 2014 | Mermaid Parade | Halloween

Coney Island: October

This weekend my friend JMP was in town from Ohio. While brainstorming potential adventures, I discovered that she'd never been to Coney Island. I confirmed that the parks were still open and when I read that they would be decorated for Halloween I knew we had to go. I've lost count of how many times I've been to Coney Island, but it's just so endlessly photogenic that I find so many new and interesting things every time I go.

The biggest difference between this trip and all the others is that it's no longer summer, so Coney Island wasn't crowded. Not as desolate as I kind of expected, but a lot of the rides were sitting empty. Since the worst part about most places to me is the other people, I loved being able to get up close to the rides without having snotty kids run into my photos.

All the people that were there were in the festively-decorated Luna Park, leaving Deno's Wonder Wheel Park looking like a ghost town in comparison. Some of the rides are pretty terrifying (why does Donald Duck have Satan eyes?) but I'll always prefer the weird and old to the new and bland.

I'm not really a ride person but I did make an exception for the Spook-a-Rama, one of the few remaining "dark rides" left in the country. We paid $7 for about 45 seconds of creepy skeletons, gnarly creatures and screaming ghosts. I wish it was longer, but as with most relics of a past time—and Coney Island in general—I'm just grateful that it still exists at all.

Coney Island: Mermaid Parade

On Saturday I met some friends at Coney Island for the Mermaid Parade, which is held every year on the first Saturday of summer. The weather was seriously perfection, and I have been wanting to attend the parade for years but I never had the chance until now. The Mermaid Parade claims to be the largest art parade in the nation and has taken place every summer since 1983. My friend Alisha told me to expect "lots of boobs and body paint" and that's pretty much all you need to know about the Mermaid Parade.

Dante and Chiara deBlasio (and his famous fro) were King Neptune and Queen Mermaid, and I later saw photos of the mayor himself dressed as a pirate, who we somehow missed. It's sort of telling that the 6'5" mayor of New York was able to dress up like a pirate and completely blend in with the crowd, but that's the gist of the Mermaid Parade, and to a certain extent, Coney Island on a normal day.

I was expecting more men in the parade (dressed as women), but the majority of mermaids appeared to be actual women. It is totally legal for women to be topless in New York, and I had no idea that there were so many different varieties of pasties available — sparkly cupcakes, tassels, starfish, seashells, sequins and of course, tons and tons of body paint and glitter.

There were the odd costumes that didn't seem to fit, like a Richard Nixon or a Popeye that you inevitably get with any parade, but the more nautical-themed, the better. I loved anyone with tentacles or a seashell bra and I said out loud that I wouldn't be happy unless I saw at least one King Triton and lo and behold he soon appeared (with Asian Ariel by his side). The parade was just incredibly fun, welcoming and celebratory— even if it was ridiculously long — and I have definitely added it to my growing list of annual New York traditions.

Coney Island: Opening Day 2014

A few Sundays ago Jim had a friend visiting the city from the UK. It was her first time in New York (and the US in general) and we were having drinks at an amazing rooftop bar when I casually mentioned that Coney Island's opening day was in two days. She said that she was interested in checking it out, and Jim and I never pass up an opportunity for an adventure, so on Sunday morning we met up for our first beach visit since last year. It was a little chilly near the water, but it was brilliantly sunny and actually felt as if the longest winter ever might finally be coming to an end.

The crowd was kind of sparse, which was equal parts great (no lines!) and kind of sad (support Coney Island, people!). Sometimes the best part of a visit to Coney Island is just imagining what it must have been like in its heyday. Once again I find myself wishing for the ability to step in and out of different time periods — to be a part of an opening day celebration when Coney Island was the place to be would be a total dream come true.

But, being there in 2014 was not without its perks — we were all ready to buy tickets to the Wonder Wheel when we were waved through the line for a completely free ride (and no waiting!). I had heard that they were letting the first 100 people ride the Cyclone for free, but I'm still not exactly sure how we were lucky enough to snag a spot on the Wonder Wheel. I have only ridden the Cyclone once — more akin to a car accident than normal roller coaster — but the Wonder Wheel is always fun.

There was a juggler on stilts and a DJ on the boardwalk, but that was about it for the "festivities." My favorite part of Coney Island is always just walking around and taking photos and this was the first time I'd been back since I got my new camera. There is always something new to discover or see, but I make sure to get my fortune from either Zoltar or Grandma before I leave.

Jim and I have already made plans to return for the Mermaid Parade in June, which has been on my to-do list for years. I'm also excited to go back when it's warm enough to actually lay on the beach, although it should surprise no one to say that I'm not exactly a beach person. I can't think of a better place, however, to try to bring back those old-timey wool bathing costumes — preferably something in a red-and-white stripe — than the weird and tacky, sometimes sad, but always fascinating Coney Island.

Coney Island

It's not hard to love Coney Island, even if a lot of what I love about it isn't even there anymore. I'm not talking about the damage from Sandy, although that's still very much an on-going issue. The Coney Island in my head may never quite match up with the real Coney Island, last stop on the D, F, N and Q trains, but I still love it.

I've only been twice, the first time for Nathan's 4th of July hotdog-eating contest (spectator, not participant), and again two weeks ago. I had considered going in the winter just to try a hotdog from Nathan's, but the original 1916 location was still closed due to damage suffered from Sandy (they reopened in May). So when my mom expressed an interest in going (she'd never been), I was in.

The day was beautiful — sunny, but breezy and cool. We went on a Wednesday, so it wasn't packed, but all the rides were open and running. On my first visit I rode the Wonder Wheel and the Cyclone, the two oldest, landmarked rides still in operation. This time we opted only for the Wonder Wheel.

Should you be interested in the Cyclone, know that while I love wooden rollercoasters, this one is particularly jarring. So much so in fact, that my friend said she "tasted blood" when it was over, and I most definitely had mild whiplash for days afterward.

People in the 1920s really knew how to have a good time.

The Wonder Wheel, however, is much less like a car accident, and much more like a regular ferris wheel. The white cars are stationary, while the blue and red cars swing. I was surprised on my first ride how much they actually swing, but this time I was more prepared and slightly less terrified.

We were the only ones on for our ride, which gives you great views of the parks, beach and ocean on one side and Surf Avenue and the rest of Brooklyn on the other.

There are tons of other games and rides — mostly for kids — and I made sure to get a fortune from Grandma (only 50 cents), but there's a Zoltar too if he's more your style ($1/fortune).

My favorite thing to do at Coney Island, however, is to just walk around. Even if the freaks are gone (officially), there are still tons of amazing signs, crumbling buildings and abandoned rides to hint at the old Coney Island that I wish I could have experienced.

We stopped and had lunch before we left at Nathan's, where I finally had my hotdog. I got mine with sauerkraut and mustard, and it was just as delicious as I expected it to be. I logically know that hotdogs are totally gross, and probably killing me, but that doesn't mean that sometimes they aren't just really, really good. Nathan's has burgers and fries and all sorts of other things besides hotdogs, but I can only attest to their hotdogs. I always wonder what kind of person goes to a place like Nathan's and orders a fish sandwich — I'm sure it's good, but it's not exactly what put the "famous" in their name, you know?

Coney Island is super easy to get to — just take the D, F, N or Q trains to the Coney Island/Stillwell Ave. stop. The beautiful, above-ground station is actually one of my favorites, and it's super close to the boardwalk and beach. Unfortunately I won't be back in time for the Mermaid Parade this year (June 22), but it's definitely on my list for next year, as is the recently reopened New York Aquarium. I'm so glad that Coney Island is bouncing back from the damage it suffered from Sandy, but if you know anything about its history, that's what Coney Island does best — survives, and reinvents itself.

It's scrappy, partially abandoned and a little bit dirty, but that's all part of why I love it and why I'll keep coming back.